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It would be smart for whirlpool to mention it as well. If the consumer determines just the switch is bad that's all they would want to replace. And just keep the other parts on hand for when the cheap piece of Crap metal tab breaks. Thanks again.
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That will be very helpful to many knowing the kit has to be replaced as a whole. I will have notes made to the part description on our website.
Thank you for choosing AppliancePartsPros.com
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******************AP4701307**********************************
This replacement redesign must be installed in its entirety. I replced just the switch before I went ahead and bothered drilling holes for the foot pedal etc... Problem is the switch circuitry is reversed. Before the buttob got pressed in to activate the compactor. This switch the button gets released to activate it. The foot pedal attachment keeps the button depressed!!!!!!!!
Long thread short.... It was the start switch #14 and the entire replacement kit had to be installed.
Thanks for all your help guys hope my experience saves soemone else the 30 days, $65 service fee and headache..
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frank the tank,
Since the tech has found the part you received to be the problem you will need to contact whomever you purchased the part from.
You will need to provide them with the complete model and serial number off the compactor, all the numbers off the old and new part along with as much of a detailed description as possible. Photos are helpful as well.
If you purchased the part from us please feel free to contact us through our toll free number 1-877-477-7278 and one of our qualified representatives will be glad to help you.
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Well gene still a problem. The new switch that comes with the replacement kit is backwards according to the tech. The metal tabs 1 and 2 have a closed circuit. When the button is actuated it opens. Hence the reason for the latter part of my issues once I replaced it. I checked tax 1 and the metal sliver where 3 should go and that is the proper reading. So is whirlpool aware of this or is there still something wrong on my end. I'm hack to square one in that the Compactor sometimes will run continuous.
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Frank, I did point you in this direction in my post on 12/14: Quote:...Frank,
This switch is normally open what means the correct resistance reading while the switch button is not depressed should be infinite. The correct reading with the button depressed should be closed to 0 Ohms.
Looks like this switch is the culprit... You stated that I misunderstood you. Fortunately your tech found and fixed the problem. Thank you for the feed back. Gene.
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Well I had to have the tech come out. Apparently the replacement start switch #14 on diagram, either was the wrong one or manufactured incorrectly. The tech pointed out the contacts showed closed. When depressed it was opened, thus compounding my issues. He re-installed the old start switch and whalla it worked. Go figure. He possibly believes the contacts became fused and from taking it off and on it dislodged them. Now have to research the start switch as to why this is the case. Many pics of the switch is showing the same on another site I ordered from. Mass in appropriate packaging by the manufacturer????
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I appreciate it gene. I have til Thursday before a repairing comes out.
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Hi Frank,
I'm stumped too, but I'm not giving up. I will ask our experts to look into this problem and I believe someone else will find the solution.
Gene.
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If it helps in troubleshooting, the compactor will start going down when the front safety door switch is depressed. Just goes down then up and bobbing at top.
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