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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Gene Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 3:30:02 PM(UTC)
 
What is the part number of the control board you installed?

Where did you get it from?
denman Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 12:11:01 AM(UTC)
 
Unfortunately I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit.
With luck someone else will jump in with the diagram.

Could be:
That there is a problem with the oven wires that supply 120 volts to the board.

The replacement board is defective. Note if it was bought used then all I can do is say that I often see supposed good used boards which in reality are bad.

You hooked the wiring up wrong when replacing the board.

Sorry I cannot be more helpful.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Nina k Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:53:36 AM(UTC)
 
I am having the exact same problem. We already replaced the digital clock display board and oven and clock display still do not work. Burners and oven light work fine. GE model JSP39 . The display is black no beeps lights nothing black. So cannot access oven controls so therefore can't operate oven as well. Please help what else could it be???
richappy Posted: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 3:06:45 AM(UTC)
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but this control board AP2026125 has no connectors, just individual spade tabs for wires for bake, broil, L1, etc.
Whenever I see a board like this, I make a diagram of which wires go where and the colors.
Then the replacement is routine and the wrong wiring is hard to do.
I do this because I once plugged in the wrong wires in a GE oven control module and blew it out.
I have another source for electonic modules and they state they will not allow the return of a module that has been plugged in!!
denman Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:21:20 AM(UTC)
 
Trader, you seem to be enjoying yourself.
Let's stop messing around and get this unit fixed.

You people obviously do not read my posts,

I am not "you people", fact is I do not know who you think "you people" is

from what I can see there is only the control panel that operates the clock & the oven, once that panel is replaced they both should work.
You said it, "should work", but it does not so the problem is probably elsewhere or a defective part.

Maybe your parts are faulty??

Always a possibility but it is uncommon to get a board which shows the same symptoms as the replaced board. Note I said "uncommon" not unheard of.
PS: They are not my parts

You seem to believe that your post have not been read so lets review:
POST 1
I think it's the control panel, but how can I be sure?? The knob for the oven turns with no resistance, all of the burners work fine. If it is the control panel is it difficult to insatll a new one?
The reply said "Sounds like" not IT IS, I guess you did not read this correctly. The second part of your question was answered.
POST 2
I ordered the parts and installed the parts, and I still can't get the oven or the clock to work..Any other suggestions woud be appreciated. Thanks.
Judging from your next post your appreciation was short lived.
POST 3
I ordered new parts an installed The parts, the control panel and face for the clock. The burners work fine but the oven & clock still do not work. I don't know how much more decsriptive I can be than that. What part dont you undrestand??
Seems unfair that you blame someone else just because you do not know how to be descriptive
POST 4
Gene, Do you even read my post before replying?? I bought the parts you suggested I put them in the stove, The OVEN AN CLOCK STILL DO NOT WORK!!!> These parts were supposed to be the solution ..

Do you imbide before you answer??

You were simply asked to give a more detailed description.
As an example saying:
My car does not run is not very descriptive.
Saying my engine does not start is a little better.
Saying my engine does not start and I have no lights better yet.
Saying my engine does not start, I have no lights and my battery has no voltage even better.
Now someone may be able to give you some possibilities re: battery is shot or a charging system problem.

You have to admit that the last part is a low blow especially when the fellow who is trying to help you is doing it out of the goodness of his heart.

Now I have read your posts and proved it, so lets back up.
What does the board do if anything?
Is it totally dead, no lights, no beeps, no nothing? You never did say!!
Do you have the wiring diagram for this unit? It would really help.
The reason I ask is getting wiring diagrams on the net from GE is very difficult. They like to keep their tech's busy so keep everything secret.
I do not have one so am just going by what is normal.
Do you have a multimeter?
Do you have any experience working with electrical. The stove has 240 volts which is lethal so having some experience could save your life!!
Have you checked the power going into the unit? The stove top elements and the oven elements run on 240 which is OK according to you re: stove top runs OK but the timer/control often runs on 120 volts so if you loose your Neutral it will not work (totally dead). You need 120 volts from Neutral to L1 and Neutral to L2. Check it with a meter.
Have you unplugged the unit and checked the wiring in it? Look for any signs of overheating on the wires from the terminal block on the back of the unit to the control board/timer. If you have a meter check them for continuity.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
trader Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:43:23 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Admin / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
I'm sure if I was there, I'd have the thing fixed in no time. However, we are NOT there and have to rely on the information provided by you, which in this case is not much. Doesn't sound like you read my post carefully. There is no magic. You give us the details and we try our best to pin point the source of the problem. If ALL you're telling us is that your oven clock doesn't work, what do you expect in return? And to make things worse, when we do ask you for more info, you come back with insults??? Just return the parts back, we'll give you full refund. I'd rather help someone who wants it.



You people obviously do not read my posts, from what I can see there is only the control panel that operates the clock & the oven, once that panel is replaced they both should work. Maybe your parts are faulty??
Admin / APP Team Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 7:54:12 PM(UTC)
 
I'm sure if I was there, I'd have the thing fixed in no time. However, we are NOT there and have to rely on the information provided by you, which in this case is not much. Doesn't sound like you read my post carefully. There is no magic. You give us the details and we try our best to pin point the source of the problem. If ALL you're telling us is that your oven clock doesn't work, what do you expect in return? And to make things worse, when we do ask you for more info, you come back with insults??? Just return the parts back, we'll give you full refund. I'd rather help someone who wants it.
trader Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 6:34:57 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Admin / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
This is a pretty simple range. It has no safety thermostat. The oven is heated with bake and broil elements and is controlled by an electronic board (clock). In order to help you all we have to go by is the information provided by you:

"all of the burners work fine" - this tells us that the range gets power (electric elements need 220 volts to "work fine").

"The knob for the oven turns with no resistance" - this knob would usually have some sort of resistance. From GE: "In October of 1996 the Cam, Nut and Spring that gave the feel of a firm knob rotation was eliminated. The purpose was to help improve assembly techniques in the plant. The cam, nut and spring do not have any affect on the controls performance. Their only purpose was controlling how easily the knob would rotate. A slight detent is still present when knob is rotated to any mode of operation or OFF. Models effected include JBP21 - JBP78". So, when you said there was no resistance, it was a possible indication of a bad control board.

As I said earlier, this is a simple model. The clock gets power directly from the source, no safeties. If the clock is dead, there are only two options - no power to the clock or bad clock. Since you said the top elements were working fine, the assumption would be that the clock does get power (a broken or burnt wire is somewhat unlikely in this case unless maybe the self cleaning cycle was used just prior to the clock going dead). So, with the very limited information that was provided everything is pointing to the clock being bad. A tech in the field would have probably checked to make sure that the clock does get power using a voltmeter. However, expertise of the homeowners asking for help varies greatly and we do try to provide advice as accurately as we can given the circumstances.

The many thanks posted through out this forum speak volumes of our volunteer experts' knowledge, dedication as well as patience.

This forum is a free service that most parts companies either do no provide or do a fairly lousy job at. Now our forum is not perfect by any means, but considering the alternatives and great feedback we get from our users, this is arguably the best place to get advice on appliance repair. And it's free.

This brings me to the derogatory comments you've made in your previous posts. Your insults do not make any common sense. You are here asking for help, are you not? What brought on this kind of language? Was it Gene asking you to provide more info, to be more descriptive? To maybe let us know for example whether the clock, both old and new, was showing any signs of life or that whether or not self cleaning was used just before the oven had passed away? This oven, by the way, would not function unless the time is set on the clock.

Now, so that you don't feel like Gene was trying to "sell" you a new clock, I will make an exception and accept this installed board back should you decide to return it. Your order has so been noted.

If you want our help, do the right thing and maybe Gene or another expert will help. Otherwise, ta-ta...

You and your staff are the supposed experts, when I tell your people that the oven and the clock do not work and you sell me a control board that runs both of these functions and after installing these parts it still does not work I am asking for a solution to said problem not mubo jumbo. Like your pros said this is not a complicated stove. So whats your problem?? Can't you figure it out?? If you don"t have a solution don"t berate the client!! TA TA !!
Admin / APP Team Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 5:45:55 PM(UTC)
 
This is a pretty simple range. It has no safety thermostat. The oven is heated with bake and broil elements and is controlled by an electronic board (clock). In order to help you all we have to go by is the information provided by you:

"all of the burners work fine" - this tells us that the range gets power (electric elements need 220 volts to "work fine").

"The knob for the oven turns with no resistance" - this knob would usually have some sort of resistance. From GE: "In October of 1996 the Cam, Nut and Spring that gave the feel of a firm knob rotation was eliminated. The purpose was to help improve assembly techniques in the plant. The cam, nut and spring do not have any affect on the controls performance. Their only purpose was controlling how easily the knob would rotate. A slight detent is still present when knob is rotated to any mode of operation or OFF. Models effected include JBP21 - JBP78". So, when you said there was no resistance, it was a possible indication of a bad control board.

As I said earlier, this is a simple model. The clock gets power directly from the source, no safeties. If the clock is dead, there are only two options - no power to the clock or bad clock. Since you said the top elements were working fine, the assumption would be that the clock does get power (a broken or burnt wire is somewhat unlikely in this case unless maybe the self cleaning cycle was used just prior to the clock going dead). So, with the very limited information that was provided everything is pointing to the clock being bad. A tech in the field would have probably checked to make sure that the clock does get power using a voltmeter. However, expertise of the homeowners asking for help varies greatly and we do try to provide advice as accurately as we can given the circumstances.

The many thanks posted through out this forum speak volumes of our volunteer experts' knowledge, dedication as well as patience.

This forum is a free service that most parts companies either do no provide or do a fairly lousy job at. Now our forum is not perfect by any means, but considering the alternatives and great feedback we get from our users, this is arguably the best place to get advice on appliance repair. And it's free.

This brings me to the derogatory comments you've made in your previous posts. Your insults do not make any common sense. You are here asking for help, are you not? What brought on this kind of language? Was it Gene asking you to provide more info, to be more descriptive? To maybe let us know for example whether the clock, both old and new, was showing any signs of life or that whether or not self cleaning was used just before the oven had passed away? This oven, by the way, would not function unless the time is set on the clock.

Now, so that you don't feel like Gene was trying to "sell" you a new clock, I will make an exception and accept this installed board back should you decide to return it. Your order has so been noted.

If you want our help, do the right thing and maybe Gene or another expert will help. Otherwise, ta-ta...
trader Posted: Sunday, May 24, 2009 6:14:04 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
What the clock does and what does not when you tried to use it?

Gene.

Gene, Do you even read my post before replying?? I bought the parts you suggested I put them in the stove, The OVEN AN CLOCK STILL DO NOT WORK!!!> These parts were supposed to be the solution ..

Do you imbide before you answer??