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Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes
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[quote=richbanks1;912829]Wow!!! This thread is really good one... Thanks for sharing...[/quote]
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Thursday, December 21, 2017 2:28:59 AM(UTC)
Wow!!! This thread is really good one... Thanks for sharing...
Tuesday, October 24, 2017 7:07:06 AM(UTC)
Thank you for your great discussion and video on Brake shoe replacement for Whirlpool type direct drive washers - VERY helpful.
I thought that I might pass along a secret that I discovered about brake problems. I picked up a "curb" washer with a bad clutch. When troubleshooting by manually rotating the motor shaft (pump off) using an adjustable wrench, I found a HEAVY resistance when turning the motor shaft in the SPIN direction (clockwise). It appeared to me that the brake was not releasing.
I replaced the clutch assembly, which included a new Driver Cam (white plastic). Even on the new driver cam (brake release arm), there seemed to be excessive slop between the driver ID and the spin tube OD. In addition, there was quite a lot of backlash / end play between the driver and it's retaining ring. I suspected all this LOST MOTION was preventing the brake shoes from fully releasing.
I fabricated an .032 steel washer to install under the retaining ring to take up most of the end play - IT WORKED!
I didn't really want to MAKE a washer and figured I could modify a large OD wood/fender washer to fit. No luck - seems all are .062 (1/16) and too thick.
Next, I looked at (automotive) valve spring insert shim washers and found one that just needed a very slight increase (.010) on the ID to fit. The only trouble is that washer is only used on a RARE engine and not available locally. Since I didn't want to spend $30 to order a box of washers when I only needed one, I went ahead and made a washer from sheet steel.
Since many of you are in the business of appliance repair and wouldn't mind spending 30 bucks for a box, I will pass along the part number: B-400-S. This is a steel washer .030 thick, 1.180 ID, 1.650 OD. This is a Pioneer or VSI part number. My spin tube measures 1.185 OD. so the washer ID needs to be opened up only about .010 which could be easily accomplished with a Dremel hand grinder. An .060 washer is also available as A-400-S, but I doubt if you will need one THAT thick.
The shim washer has serrations on one side which could eat plastic, so keep that side toward the steel snap ring.
I think that this method may eliminate the need of grinding off material ("up to 1/8 inch") on the brake shoes to eliminate drag.
I hope this helps.
Wednesday, October 7, 2015 9:26:12 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: IvelDesigns
maybe it's just me, but this seems pretty complicated for a person who has never worked on a washing machine before. would you agree?
if i were to call a repairman, what kind of charge should i expect to pay?
sorry, forgot to say that i am having an issue with spin only. agitate works, drains fine, but won't spin even with one wet towel in it. there is a burning smell if we leave it, however, if you help start it by hand, it will spin up to speed on it's own.
this is in a kenmore 90 series
If it spins empty, and not with a full load, its your clutch. All thats required to repair is a few tools. If your not comfortable enough to repair it yourself, the repair usually costs around $180 to $220. All depending on the repair company used. I replace these all day long, and this is one of the most common issues with the 80 and 90 series washers.
Saturday, August 29, 2015 1:20:53 PM(UTC)
Dear richappy and other washer pros,
I have Kenmore Elite 11026922502 (about 10 years old), has been running ok, until about a year sometime cloths are quite wet after what looks like normal spin. Then I set it for additional spin and it is OK, sometime even one additional spin is needed. This problem became more frequent recently. I checked the coupler, it looked ok. I checked also clutch (it is 6 pad clutch) and after removing from washer I could move it with the finger, it moves but it does not feel loose. There was also a lot of little dark pieces inside of the clutch coming most likely from the brake shoe pads as they has been wearing off by time. The brake pads does not look thin though and I could also turn plastic cam till the brake release and rotate counter-clockwise without any problem.
My question is what should I replace if washer spins and randomly (but recently more often) cloths remain quite wet after normally looking spin.
1. Replace clutch (if yes should I install 6 pad or 3 pad, original is 6 pad).
2. Replace brake shoes? Or just grease shoe cam rollers?
3. Replace also tub suspension pads (after 10 years of use)?
Thank you for your suggestions!
Friday, July 12, 2013 8:38:39 AM(UTC)
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Wednesday, March 6, 2013 2:11:11 PM(UTC)
For high speed on a 2-speed motor connect hot to motor blue wire and yellow wire. Connect neutral to motor white and capacitor. Remove red wire coming from timer from capacitor and connect there (to the capacitor). For low speed, hot to motor orange and yellow.
I don't know the trip temp rating for the thermal overload but the motor is rated for max ambient surrounding air temp of 40°C (104°F) and winding insulation rating of 130°C (266°F). The thermal switch is mounted on the frame right next to the motor switch.
Wednesday, March 6, 2013 12:03:06 PM(UTC)
2speed.....it draws only 8 to 9amps when in low agitation.
Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:13:50 AM(UTC)
2-speed or 3-speed motor?
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