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Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes
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[quote=richappy;8083]A slow spin sometimes is due to dragging brake shoes if nothing stuck in the tub, or a broken filter under the spin basket. A shattered coupler failure during spin is another indication. Shine a lite in the basket to check, or just remove spin basket to check for foreign objects. Other indications are excessive vibration during spin, or a jerky stop. If you have an amprobe, measure the motor current during spin. With the tub full of water, the current should quickly go up to 10 amps, then ramp down to below 9 as the basket gets up to full speed when high speed is selected. If it just stays at 8 amps or less, you have a slipping clutch probably due to dragging brake shoes.These numbers will vary as a complex function of how bad the shoes are dragging and/or clutch slipping. If one brake shoe drags more than the other,or is worn more, current draw may be "normal", and the washer will vibrate excessively in spin. If the current is over 11 amps, the motor should start smoking! If the spin basket has difficulty getting up to speed, you have a slipping clutch. You can determine this by slightly holding the spin basket when you select spin.A rapid spin up to speed shows a "good" clutch. Another indication is a jerky, noisy stop at turn off. A really serious indication, is a smoking motor! To confirm further, remove pump and motor (replace tranny coupler if broken) and turn tranny coupler clockwise till basket starts to turn, if very hard to turn, this confirms it.If unsure, put the motor back in and turn the shaft with an adjustable wrench. If it feals like excessive torq is needed to get the basket turning, you have problems. Do this test several times, brake rollers wear unevenly and sometimes they release the brakes, and sometimes they don't. If it takes a lot of rotation to get the tranny to engage spin, and the coupler broke, your coupler broke during agitation of a heavy load and brake shoes may be ok. If it only took a few turns to get it into spin, the coupler broke during spin. I just repaired one with a jerky stop and found it cracked the motor epoxy and ruined the motor bushings! At this point, I would resist the temptation of just spraying the shoes with WD-40. This is a temporary fix of a deteriorating situation that may degrade to the "smoking" motor stage! If the washer is an older one, and the brakes are not sticking "bad" WD-40 is ok, the situation is not deteriorating "fast". The reason for brake shoe failure is a combination of soft brake shoe roller metal and lack of lubrication on the rollers. Be aware,dragging brake shoes will eventually ruin the motor bushings, smoke the motor run winding, and accelerate the wear out of the brake shoes,clutch, coupler and tranny nylon gear. To replace brake shoes, first remove motor, pump, agitator and tranny. Do NOT remove the hoses, just jam the pump to the left. At this time, pound on the new coupler and make sure it is a very tight fit. If the washer is more than 6 years old, you may find the tranny hard to pull out. You then will need to clean/scrape the spindle just above the spindle seal to let the spindle slide out easily. You can do this when you pull out the tranny. If the spin tube comes out with the tranny, push the tranny back in and clean/scrape the tranny spindle more, you want to avoid removing the spin tube along with the tranny. Then, loosen the spin basket drive block nut with the special spanner wrench, [PART]AP3538707[/PART], pound down on the loose nut and pull up on one side of the spin basket to break free. If you don't have the special spanner wrench, you can use a small pipe wrench and a heavy hammer, just turn it counterclockwise.However, It is recommended to use the special spanner wrench to properly tighten the drive block nut at the end of the repair. At this time it might be a good idea to pull the spin basket to check for something in the tub, or a broken filter. If nothing, replace the spin basket before proceeding, but don't tighten the drive block nut. Also, at this time, test the clutch sitting on top of the tranny. Hold the clutch housing and try to turn the inner pad assembly, if really hard to turn, it's ok. If not, either get a new clutch AP3094537 or FRP # [PART]285785[/PART], or fix the old one. If not badly worn, you can add small washers into the spring retainer, just make sure the spring is still retained. On the bottom of the spin tube, pry down the spin tube sufficiently to get the brake shoes clear of the brake housing, (but not too far). Do NOT pull the spin tube out all the way, it's not necessary and you will have a mess of turbine oil on the floor and it will require more work. Then remove c clips, spring,plastic cam, steel cam and brake shoes.Check the brake shoe cam rollers for excessive play, if worn replace the shoes. The new brake shoes are available, [PART]285438[/PART], $32,this site #AP3094432. To repair the old shoes, I routinely grind down the shoe pads by 1/8 inch or less, just try to take the same amount of pad from both shoes. Then put oil on the pad and work some silicone grease in the roller.***Hint: If you have no grinder, you can use a wood file or sharp wood scraper on the pads with them STILL mounted on the spin tube. This will save a lot of time! This assumed you have only a small amount of wear on the brake shoe rollers.If you had a "smoking motor", type jam, replace the brake shoes. This will solve your problem. Check the brake housing for rust pits, if so, I put oil on the brake shoe pads and smoothen the housing with emery paper. If this housing is badly pitted, you will probably need to grind down more of the pad and in this case, new brake shoes will not work without grinding! Grease the brake shoe cam rollers; This will ensure long, trouble free service! Re-assemble, pushing the spin tube up all the way.Test the brake shoes by turning the plastic cam till the brakes release. If they fail to release completely, grind more off the pads. Pack silicone grease in the upper spindle seal before putting back the tranny. I lubricate the tranny spindle with non-detergent oil (zoom spout oiler [PART]55191[/PART]),makes it easier to push in. After you replace the motor, turn the motor shaft clockwise till you hear the tranny shift to spin. If very hard to turn, you have something jammed in there that was overlooked. If ok Now check motor current, should be lower than before. It is important to check motor current for safe operation. A motor drawing well over 11 amps will start smoking! Before tightening the drive block nut, make sure the spin tube tabs are in the spin drive block slots. Just push down and turn the spin basket till they fall in place. It's important to really pound tight the drive block nut to prevent future problems. If the spin basket becomes loose later, it will wear(make a ramp) the spin tube tabs. If this happens, you will have to file the tabs to remove the ramp and install a new drive block. This repair is a lot easier and cheaper than replacing the entire spin tube assembly! Note: Be careful not to grind too much pad off the shoes, if you do, it will take much longer to stop and make more noise. Also, you may need to tilt the washer back a lot more to keep the spin tube from sliding down. Note: The coupler is put in there to break from a high impact load,(ex.stuck brake shoes or heavy agitator load), thus protecting other components from failure.A high impact load can occur from a towel stuck in the tub, or sneakers with insufficient water. However,it will not necessarily break due to a high friction load, which may deteriorate to a smoking motor load! An example of a high friction load would be brake shoes that "partially" release and cause a motor current over 11 amps. Fortunately, Whirlpool is NOW using less friction pads in the new clutch assembly that tend to reduce the probability of a smoking motor as the clutch will start to slip. However, if this happens, the clutch will wear out quicker. New update, Whirlpool has put a ridge on the tranny thrust washer above the c clip. When you pull and replace the tranny, this washer can shift higher, thus jamming the spin tube! Latest update, The new clutches only have 3 pads, thus they wear out fast, so fast that they fail to properly release the brake shoes giving a false symptom of bad brakes. Just replace/repair the clutch before testing. When the job is done, it's best (particularly if you had a smoking motor) to test the current draw in agitate and spin, anything over 10 amps will indicate a bad motor, burnt/shorted windings. Shake update; If the washer shakes in spin with a jerky motion and no clothes in it, you might have worn skate plate pads. It also could have weak springs, an unbalanced spin basket, or bad brake shoes that where filed differtly on each shoe. Remove outer panel and all skate plate springs and check for stretched springs. If ok, jam a board under the skate plate and replace each brown friction pad 285744,(AP3094518) should fix it. Good luck[/quote]
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
richbanks1
Posted:
Thursday, December 21, 2017 2:28:59 AM(UTC)
Wow!!! This thread is really good one... Thanks for sharing...
JERRY KING
Posted:
Tuesday, October 24, 2017 7:07:06 AM(UTC)
Thank you for your great discussion and video on Brake shoe replacement for Whirlpool type direct drive washers - VERY helpful.
I thought that I might pass along a secret that I discovered about brake problems. I picked up a "curb" washer with a bad clutch. When troubleshooting by manually rotating the motor shaft (pump off) using an adjustable wrench, I found a HEAVY resistance when turning the motor shaft in the SPIN direction (clockwise). It appeared to me that the brake was not releasing.
I replaced the clutch assembly, which included a new Driver Cam (white plastic). Even on the new driver cam (brake release arm), there seemed to be excessive slop between the driver ID and the spin tube OD. In addition, there was quite a lot of backlash / end play between the driver and it's retaining ring. I suspected all this LOST MOTION was preventing the brake shoes from fully releasing.
I fabricated an .032 steel washer to install under the retaining ring to take up most of the end play - IT WORKED!
I didn't really want to MAKE a washer and figured I could modify a large OD wood/fender washer to fit. No luck - seems all are .062 (1/16) and too thick.
Next, I looked at (automotive) valve spring insert shim washers and found one that just needed a very slight increase (.010) on the ID to fit. The only trouble is that washer is only used on a RARE engine and not available locally. Since I didn't want to spend $30 to order a box of washers when I only needed one, I went ahead and made a washer from sheet steel.
Since many of you are in the business of appliance repair and wouldn't mind spending 30 bucks for a box, I will pass along the part number: B-400-S. This is a steel washer .030 thick, 1.180 ID, 1.650 OD. This is a Pioneer or VSI part number. My spin tube measures 1.185 OD. so the washer ID needs to be opened up only about .010 which could be easily accomplished with a Dremel hand grinder. An .060 washer is also available as A-400-S, but I doubt if you will need one THAT thick.
The shim washer has serrations on one side which could eat plastic, so keep that side toward the steel snap ring.
I think that this method may eliminate the need of grinding off material ("up to 1/8 inch") on the brake shoes to eliminate drag.
I hope this helps.
Jerry King
Tech72
Posted:
Wednesday, October 7, 2015 9:26:12 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: IvelDesigns
maybe it's just me, but this seems pretty complicated for a person who has never worked on a washing machine before. would you agree?
if i were to call a repairman, what kind of charge should i expect to pay?
**edit**
sorry, forgot to say that i am having an issue with spin only. agitate works, drains fine, but won't spin even with one wet towel in it. there is a burning smell if we leave it, however, if you help start it by hand, it will spin up to speed on it's own.
this is in a kenmore 90 series
If it spins empty, and not with a full load, its your clutch. All thats required to repair is a few tools. If your not comfortable enough to repair it yourself, the repair usually costs around $180 to $220. All depending on the repair company used. I replace these all day long, and this is one of the most common issues with the 80 and 90 series washers.
georgecoat
Posted:
Saturday, August 29, 2015 1:20:53 PM(UTC)
Dear richappy and other washer pros,
I have Kenmore Elite 11026922502 (about 10 years old), has been running ok, until about a year sometime cloths are quite wet after what looks like normal spin. Then I set it for additional spin and it is OK, sometime even one additional spin is needed. This problem became more frequent recently. I checked the coupler, it looked ok. I checked also clutch (it is 6 pad clutch) and after removing from washer I could move it with the finger, it moves but it does not feel loose. There was also a lot of little dark pieces inside of the clutch coming most likely from the brake shoe pads as they has been wearing off by time. The brake pads does not look thin though and I could also turn plastic cam till the brake release and rotate counter-clockwise without any problem.
My question is what should I replace if washer spins and randomly (but recently more often) cloths remain quite wet after normally looking spin.
1. Replace clutch (if yes should I install 6 pad or 3 pad, original is 6 pad).
2. Replace brake shoes? Or just grease shoe cam rollers?
3. Replace also tub suspension pads (after 10 years of use)?
Thank you for your suggestions!
unlandano
Posted:
Friday, July 12, 2013 8:38:39 AM(UTC)
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unlandano
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unlandano
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fairbank56
Posted:
Wednesday, March 6, 2013 2:11:11 PM(UTC)
For high speed on a 2-speed motor connect hot to motor blue wire and yellow wire. Connect neutral to motor white and capacitor. Remove red wire coming from timer from capacitor and connect there (to the capacitor). For low speed, hot to motor orange and yellow.
I don't know the trip temp rating for the thermal overload but the motor is rated for max ambient surrounding air temp of 40°C (104°F) and winding insulation rating of 130°C (266°F). The thermal switch is mounted on the frame right next to the motor switch.
Eric
Nitro itch
Posted:
Wednesday, March 6, 2013 12:03:06 PM(UTC)
2speed.....it draws only 8 to 9amps when in low agitation.
fairbank56
Posted:
Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:13:50 AM(UTC)
2-speed or 3-speed motor?
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