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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Monday, October 17, 2011 12:35:41 PM(UTC)
Cooktop will not include part #15

Go to the site and sign in.
Then go to Downloads
Then Cooking Products
Then Page 3
Then Whirlpool KAC-23
szbz Posted: Monday, October 17, 2011 10:40:41 AM(UTC)
I've been unable to download service manual for KECC508RPB00. Please help me do this. I have joined but when I go there to get manual it just throws me back to AppliancePartsPros web site. (I'm using a MacIntosh with Safari browser. Is that a problem?)

Also, does the part #15 you recommended (control board) come attached to ceramic cooktop if I opted to replace the whole ceramic top. Since ceramic top went out 6 days after warranty was up I was offered a discount on a new top and the new top is not much more than part #15. So, if I bought the new top, would it come with part #15?

You said to remove the "element". Please explain. Is this a round electronic unit separately attached to the ceramic cooktop? Does it come off?
denman Posted: Monday, October 17, 2011 1:35:41 AM(UTC)
Here are your parts

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Here is a manual
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.

You will not have to replace the entire cooktop.

Remove the element and check it with a meter.
If OK then odds are that the control board is shot (Item 15) if the stove top control seems to function properly.

Be sure to remove power from the unit when working on it.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
szbz Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2011 1:49:40 PM(UTC)
I have a 6-year-old Kitchen Aid electric cooktop. Exactly one year ago, when top was damaged, glass range top was replaced and it has worked perfectly since then. Control dial for this burner lites up and appears fine but one day, suddenly this one burner doesn't get hot. It was expensive replacing the entire top. Is there someone that can tell me how to trouble-shoot to see if there are particular small part(s) that could be replaced rather than replace the entire glass top? Thank you.