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Originally Posted by: sidfink43  Anyway, I would call the chat line at APP and talk with them about getting the "string" and see if they can help you, it should be only about $20.00-$30.00, but even if you have to get the whole assembly it's a lot better than a new dryer.
I found the part number for the Heater coil and will post it later today. You are so right about even the Full Heater assembly is cheaper at $93.00 (SEARS parts direct) than a new dryer at $600 - $900 or more.
Anyway, good luck with your repair. Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Also, don't be too hard on us for suggesting you check the circuit coming in. A lot of the diy'ers don't know (and some of the pro's forget) that you can sometimes have 110 on a 220 circuit and they don't realize half of it is out. At least twice a year I tear down a machine only to find I did not check the voltage coming in, and could have solved the problem by flicking a breaker. (don't tell anyone) I to have forgotten somethings only to be reminded by someone or had one of thes AH HA moments and then kicked my own butt for sloppy trouble shooting (all in the in the interest of quick fixes instead of methodical step by step trouble shooting), So I am sorry if I sometimes bristle when people tell me to check what I think is obvious. I have lived with constant reminders by young punks right out of college (and think they know everything) that They have a college degree and I don't. But what I have that they don't is experience!!! anyway to anyone on here that I seemed harsh with I appologise. My wife said even though I could order the heating element ($20.00) that she would raher pay for the assembly (to prevent frustration on my part) so it will be here Friday and the dryer will be up and running
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Well, glad you found the problem, and I also tried to find the coil for you, but it seems the only way it is listed is as the heater assembly. This is new to me, we re-string these regularly. Anyway, I would call the chat line at APP and talk with them about getting the "string" and see if they can help you, it should be only about $20.00-$30.00, but even if you have to get the whole assembly it's a lot better than a new dryer.
Also, don't be too hard on us for suggesting you check the circuit coming in. A lot of the diy'ers don't know (and some of the pro's forget) that you can sometimes have 110 on a 220 circuit and they don't realize half of it is out. At least twice a year I tear down a machine only to find I did not check the voltage coming in, and could have solved the problem by flicking a breaker. (don't tell anyone)
Anyway, good luck with your repair.
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Thank you sidfink 43 there is in fact a third device right on the front of the blower housing it is the Control Thermostat (Controls the temprature in the drum.) It checked out good so buttoned up the dryer because the kids needed to do some laundry, and even with it being air fluff only, it is better than going to the laundry mat (only one in our small town) that is so busy and crowded on weekends. when They started the dryer I got my hopes up because it smelled like the element was geting hot then the coil broke and had to shut the dryer down. Part of the coil is scraping and scratching the back of the drum so I guess that settles it have to replace the heaterassy. I could not find just the heater element to replace have only found part numbers for the complete heater assembly. Do you know where I can get the number for just the coil to replace or have they stoped making them seperately.
Thanks so much for your help
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Thank you Kayakcrzy for your great sugestion but I guess you did not read the signature of my post about me being a former US Marine Electronics Technician. The very first thing I do when working on Electrical or electronic items in the home is test the electrical outrlet Then work my way inward til I loose the power.
No offense ment but I am not the average home repair person. I have more years experience in Electroncs and computers than I care to mention.
And just to let you know I have 220 at the power plock to trhe dryer
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I would check the power where the cord runs into the dryer, and make sure you have 240 volts. Sometimes the breaker will partially trip, and the dryer will run, but will not heat. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Click on your model number and it will take you to the exploded diagrams of your machine. You have a thermal limiter and a safety thermostat along with a thermostat on the blower housing, so you should have checked three items.
If all three of these check, then as you indicated, your next step is the heating coils.
Good luck and please post what you find.
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Tuesday the Dryer stopped heating the drum turns and the blower works. After reading this forum I located and tested the High Limit switch and the Other thermal safety switch both have continuity the only other thing I think could be the problem is the Heater coil. Is there anything else other than the two thermal safetys that Check out good that could cause the dryer to run but not heat?
Thank you
Max
Honorably Discharged Marine ( Electronics Technician)
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