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Well thanks very much for your help. The above components are only $50 which is MUCH cheaper than a new dryer. So even if there is 1 or 2 of those items I dont need still cheaper than a new dryer lol.
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Not being there I cannot say for sure but perhaps you may want to try a jiggery pokery (a home made solution).
It has probably been updated because of the same problem you have.
Perhaps it is better going with their solution!!
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Sounds like you found it.
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Ok I cant believe it didnt dawn on me about my blower motor seal. The part that seals the blower assembly to the front frame. It is all crushed on the bottom but it was like that the first time I took this dryer apart in March. Seems odd that it would last this long without blowing the fuse. What it looks like is when it was put together someone didnt have the dryer up high enough so when they put the front door assembly on they crushed the bottom part of the seal (meaning not the bottom bottom but the uppper bottom where the hole is). I guess I didnt think about it because thats the way the dryer looked the first time I took it apart so "assumed" that is ok.
I am assuming thats where I could be getting cold air. Its really hot air in the dryer and luke warm air coming out of the vent.
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1. No problems with wheel. Its quite tight and I couldnt get it to spin on the shaft. It spins freely. However it spins freely in both directions but only one direction turns the drum. Should this be of concern?
No, this is OK and so is everything else.
When you get the new fuse and thermostat installed, check that the different heat settings work.
I will give this another think and perhaps something else will pop into my head.
Perhaps someone else can supply another possible cause or two.
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Originally Posted by: arnie460  Is this a gas dryer? If so, you may have bad coils on the gas valve. Always replace the hi limit when you blow a fuse. sorry I missed this comment before. This is an electric dryer.
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Ok I went through everything you sugested as possabilities.
1. No problems with wheel. Its quite tight and I couldnt get it to spin on the shaft. It spins freely. However it spins freely in both directions but only one direction turns the drum. Should this be of concern?
2. Heater reads 11 ohms when touched together and "OL" when checking to ground.
3. Cycling thermostat changes from .1 ohms to "OL" when I heated it up with a hair dryer and it didnt take but 2 seconds for it to switch.
4. I couldnt find any cracks on any of the seals anywhere that would leave me to believe an air leak. Matter of fact the door seal still looks like the day I bought the dryer.
5. the filter/hoses/all that involves "lint" are all clean with no issues.
I just got the fuse that I ordered yesterday (talk about quick service) so I will install the new fuse AND change the hi limit but I still want to make sure there isnt something missing I should check before running it too long (You know how women can get when one of "their" appliances goes out of commision for a day or 2) as I want to try and avoid having to do this all over again in a month and a half.
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So in essance what you are saying is that the hi limit switch not being replaced when I replaced the fuse is why the thermal fuse most likely blew again?
No, all I am saying is that it is a possibility.
It should not blow the fuse unless the high limit has a problem.
Also you have another problem because the unit should not run on the high limit even if the high limit is good.
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Originally Posted by: denman I do not have a wiring diagram for this dryer so my comments are just general and not specific to this unit
I was going to quick replace the hi limit switch but one of the blades is no where to be found on the hi limit switch and I have no idea if it was broke when I recieved it or not as I didnt take the time to replace it while I was in the dryer.
Not quite sure what this means?
The one I recieved from appliancepartspros.com has a broken blade so all I did was replace the fuse. since the hi limit switch that was sent to me was broke. I just figured the hi limit switch that is still in the dryer should work still but now I know better. being an electrical apprentice I have alot to learn still :D. So in essance what you are saying is that the hi limit switch not being replaced when I replaced the fuse is why the thermal fuse most likely blew again? I have a $350 meter I use that my employer bought me so im not worried about that :D. I didnt think of checking the heat elements for ohms ill do that. The blower fan doesnt spin on the shaft so I am sure that is good.
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