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You have the correct voltage (240) at the element.
That means the only thing that could be bad is the element itself.
Replace the heating element and it will work just fine again.
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Originally Posted by: ApplianceJunk  You should have 240 Volts on the element.
If you have 240 Volts on the element then you need to replace the element. You said "I should have 240 volts on the element". Then you wrote " if I have 240 volts on the element it's bad". :confused: I am hoping you could help me understand this so I can fix the Whirlpool and bring it up to rutgers, Thanks
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Good for you!
$50 sounds like a great deal.
Thanks for the update..
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ApplianceJunk- Thanks for the advice.
When I checked the coil by putting one probe on each terminal I get 0 volts. What should I do?
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A wonderful couple let me buy a spare dryer they had at their yard sale. They bought a house and it came with a washer & dryer so this was brand new sitting in the garage taking up valuable motorcycle real estate.
Man these things got quieter over the years! It's a Heavy duty GE DBLR333T1WW for 50 Bucks. Well that's one less thing to worry about.
When I get the Whirlpool fixed I'm going to "pay it forward" and give it to the college kids at Rutgers.:D
I may be Stumped- but I still got roots!
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Quote:I checked power to the heat coils and both legs have 117V.
You should check across the heater for power, one probe on each element terminal. You should have 240 Volts on the element. If you have 240 Volts on the element then you need to replace the element.
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I lost heat yesterday so I checked the duct and vent door, they're okay. Then I checked the thermal fuse right away since it went out once before a couple of years ago. That was okay (N.C.).
I checked the Variable resistor it's working fine, same oHms range as 2 years ago.
I checked the Heater Box Thermal Cutoff, it reads n.c.
I checked power to the heat coils and both legs have 117V.
The operating stat and High Limit Stat. both read N.C. (good) and is not burnt.
I tried by-passing the Operating Stat[. and then tried by-passing the High Limit sw. but still no heat.
I read resistance of 17K oHms unwired of course at the timer Power Resistor. (don't know if 17K is okay?)
I went under the motor and found the ground wire eye loop was un-attached to the motor and the motor ground screw was stripped tightly shut. I reconnected but still no heat.
I'm thinking it's the Timer but I'm not able to verify what I'm doing or what I'm missing, please help. Thanks
P.S. I'll be yard sailing for a used Dryer if I have to buy a new T switch, it's $85.00!
Stumped again
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