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My warranty company is sending an appliance dude back out...I'll remember to post whatever he tells me but I'd take it with a grain of salt considering he either 1.) he put it back together incorrectly. or 2.) failed to test thoroughly.
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43  I am assuming this is a direct drive Whirlpool made machine.
Your machine has a neutral drain, meaning when it starts to drain the transmission shifts into neutral so it is not trying to turn the tub while it is full of water.
The timer needs to pause the motor after the drain is complete. This causes the transmission to shift into spin. If the motor does not pause, no shift. So the timer is not doing its "pause" job, and when you open and close the lid you are doing the pause job for it. That is why it starts spinning after you do that.
So replacing the timer should fix your problem. It is a Belt Drive machine... not a direct drive. Does this change things? and BTW... I cant open and close lid since it stays locked throughout whole wash cycle. So any other ideas... and lastly... it is a 2014 Whirpool New-style Belt drive.
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It is a Belt Drive machine... not a direct drive. Does this change things?
and BTW... I cant open and close lid since it stays locked throughout whole wash cycle. So any other ideas...
and lastly... it is a 2014 Whirpool New style Belt drive.
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Originally Posted by: shmoozer Well, any feedback? Mine is doing the same and I did clean the contacts inside the timer several years ago. I cleaned them again; only one seemed burned. I have a 11092583810 Kenmore Washer. The cheapest timer I found was on (withheld) for $89 but now I'll check this site for a price. I would rather just replace the contacts if they can be purchased. Can I buy just the contact pack for the washer instead of buying the whole timer? I'm sorry for the late update. My issue turned out to be the speed control selector switch. Somehow, playing with the lid and controls would make contact inside the switch. Pushing on the knob of the speed control made the connection. I ended up purchasing a new washer last year- what a mistake.
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I'm not an appliance guy, but I dabble in troubleshooting...I'm not buying into the timer cure-all solution presented here. I mean, haven't clocks been around for a millennia or two? I want to assume humanity has mastered the clock by now.
In my case my washer was recently repaired for making a clunking sound during agitation...it was only AFTER the appliance guy worked on my unit that I started having issues with the spin not engaging. In addition, the unit makes a strange hum noise when it is supposed to be spinning but isn't. I have also observed what sounded like a shot of water being introduced during the spin cycle, which I honestly assumed should not be happening...this was the only potential symptom I observed that MAY be related to the timer. Even then that could be normal, and I still wouldn't suspect the timer hardware if it were abnormal.... I'd suspect the numb-nuts who botched the repair that caused this issue. Perhaps the timer can be calibrated?
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I don't have an answer for that, but observing the clutch hub would certainly tell us where to look further.
Eric
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Eric - thanks for that info. If the clutch hub is slipping why would an intensional pause (lifting the lid or pushing in and pulling out the start button) cause the unit to thump into the spin mode?
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The pause directly after agitation has nothing to do with neutral drain. That pause is to allow the motor to stop before starting again in the opposite direction. Then it should drain without spin for a minute or two and then pause again. The second pause is to allow the neutral drain to release. Then it will start again spinning and draining. If the pause after drain does not release neutral drain then there's likely something wrong with the neutral drain mechanism in the gearcase. You can rule out the clutch by observing the clutch hub during drain and spin. You must remove the cabinet, bypass the lid switch and observe the clutch hub. During the initial drain period directly after agitate, the clutch hub does not rotate. After the motor pauses and starts again, the clutch hub should be rotating. If it is and the basket is not spinning, then the clutch is slipping. Eric 
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Originally Posted by: chrisnelson1 you think theres any chance its the start motor capacitor??? No, because your motor would not turn at all if it was the start capacitor. It is the pause at that timed moment that causes it to spin after draining. My lid switch was acting up so I replaced it and I just leave the lid up until I am ready to drain and spin. I do not know what to tell you other than keep lifting the lid. I have been doing this for some time now and it is not as much of a bother as I thought it would be; it turns out my clothes get washed faster rather than me forgetting they are there and getting side tracked.
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you think theres any chance its the start motor capacitor???
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