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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Admin / APP Team Posted: Thursday, August 2, 2007 2:58:45 PM(UTC)
There are two common sensor styles - short and long. Short oven sensor is about 3 inches long, while the long oven sensor is about 6 - 6.5 inches in length. Click on links below to view photos for comparison:

- short oven sensor
- long oven sensor Posted: Thursday, August 2, 2007 11:39:53 AM(UTC)
Would I be correct in assuming the oven sensor is also the thermal coupling, the line that runs from the broiler up into the oven with the little rounded tip?
Admin / APP Team Posted: Wednesday, August 1, 2007 11:33:25 AM(UTC)
If that's the case, I would think the oven sensor might be bad. Since we can't get the model number, can you send a photo of the old sensor, or atleast its length?

To get to the oven igniter, first make sure the power is turned off to the stove. Open the oven door, remove all racks, then lift and remove the oven floor (divider between oven and broiler compartment). It may have two clips holding it down, release the clips. Then remove the flame spreader (it has one nut holding it down). You should then see the oven igniter. But since you're getting the error code after 10-20 seconds as you're saying, I would replace the oven sensor first. Posted: Wednesday, August 1, 2007 10:18:19 AM(UTC)
When we set the oven to bake, in about a 10-20 seconds, the beepuing starts and the error codes appear. There is no glowing, no response by the igniter when in any mode the oven is set in. So, I'm inclined to believe the igniter is shot. But, does the broiler door come off its tracks or is there another way to get to the igniter located in the broiler rack? Thanks again in advance.
Admin / APP Team Posted: Wednesday, August 1, 2007 9:52:51 AM(UTC)
Can you tell me exactly what happens when you set the oven to bake? I understand that the oven is not turning on, but what do you see on the control board at that point? Both F2 and F3 stand for a problem with the oven sensor, however they contradict each other - one means the sensor is closed, the other means its open. Anyway, let me know about the board please.

As far as the oven igniter...
There are two oven igniters available - round and flat. One of them will work for you, you'll just need to take a look at the old one and see which one it is, no need for the model number.

- Round oven igniter
- Flat oven igniter

If the broiler is located under the oven, then both bake and broil cycles share the same igniter and burner. If the broil is inside the oven up top, then it has its own igniter and a separate burner.

There is no way to manually light the oven. Here is how it works (simplified version). Your control (whether an analog thermostat or a digital board) sends the signal to the igniter, the igniter begins to glow. When the igniter gets hot enough (30-90 seconds) it passes a specific amount of amperage to the oven safety valve. The valve then opens and lets the gas in to the burner. Igniter then ignites the gas. When your oven gets to your set temperature, the control shuts down the igniter, which in turn kills the valve. Then when the oven temp drops 50 or so degrees below set temperature, the control senses it and tells the igniter to start up again, etc. It cycles on and off this way until the bake cycle is turned off. So, where were we... Oh yes, if the igniter is not on and producing enough amperage, the valve will remain closed. That is why there is no way to turn the oven on manually.

Igniters break, but more often they get too weak. They would still glow, but won't pass enough amperage to the safety valve. If the igniter glow is not bright white, it's a good bet the igniter is gone and needs to be replaced. Posted: Wednesday, August 1, 2007 8:25:09 AM(UTC)
After looking again for the model number on the aluminum sheet, I can only identify these 5 numbers (20728). Is there anywhere else besides the bottom door frame is the model number displayed again.
On top of that, does the broiler door come completely out of its tracks? If so, I may be able to get to the igniter part number.
Another thing if the igniter is located under the oven heating shield is it for the both oven and broiler?
When the igniter goes out does it also stop the gas from going to the oven vents, so that you may manually light the oven? Please need help as soon as possible. Posted: Monday, July 30, 2007 5:54:53 AM(UTC)
After looking at the oven igniter, the burner in the oven never lights, the gas doesn't even come through the oven. The eyes on the top gets gas but the oven don't. So, disregard the part about the temp, because it never ignites.

I did find some numbers, the aluminum sheet is all discolorated. The number I did retrieve are: Roper 20728.
Adam / APP Team Posted: Thursday, July 26, 2007 1:55:52 PM(UTC)

Do you have the complete model ?
Please make sure to get the model number off the appliance itself.
Click for model number locator Posted: Thursday, July 26, 2007 1:46:07 PM(UTC)
The error codes are F2&F3, with F2 being the most frequent. Thanks for the reply.

Admin / APP Team Posted: Thursday, July 26, 2007 11:31:39 AM(UTC)
Could you tell us what error code shows up on the display? F1, F2, etc. Also, post the model number. (Model Number Locator)