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How do I remove black stain of arc left behind when my terminal block wire blew?
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Still haven't gotten the part. May be moving on to an Induction cooktop...
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I would tend against trying individual speed nuts for this, if for no other reason than space limitations. That terminal block distributes hot into 4 wires, and common into 4 wires - it would be a clusterfook to try speednuts in that confined an area, and I can see one trying to slip out and making a hot mess of things.
I just got an e-mail from partSource dot com that the expected delivery was the 12th. I tend to think that means absolutely nothing, but we'll see...
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I cannot think of anything.
Did he say how long a wait you will have, if it is excessive I would be temped to use wire nuts to make the connections.
As long as they are rated for the amperage and the total wire size I cannot see a problem. I would use the bakelite (well I think it is bakelite, hard black insulator) type which has the brass insert with a screw. You make your connection and then screw the insulating part over top of this.
This would also have the advantage of you not having to crimp on new connectors to the stove's wires.
Perhaps someone else will jump in with a reason why this would not be a good idea.
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denman:
I didn't see an element glowing unevenly, and inspecting the internals of the cooktop don't show any arcing/heating/whatnot anywhere but the very melted terminal block itself.
Today I got a message from the vendor from which I purchased (partstore) that the block is backordered. I think meanwhile I will pull each element to more closely inspect their condition to ensure that I didn't miss something.
Any other suggestions?
Regards,
Mike
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The only thing that makes sense here is if an element is shorting to ground.
This sometimes happens especially with the feet on the baking element up to the point it is shorting.
Often though you would see it as part of the element will be brighter.
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Thanks for the response, denman - much of what you said was on the agenda.
I would like to check each element to ensure that one or more of them isn't shorting (or whatever they do when they go bad) - what should I be looking for?
Regards
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Do not really have an opinion without actually seeing the unit and checking all the elements and knowing how the unit is used. Any opinion on the cause would be a guess.
But I can tell you is what I know about overheating at connection points.
If a connection point is not quite right, it will not have 0 ohms. This small resistance then heats up as current passes through it. This heat corrodes the connection and causes micro arcing. These then raise the resistance which increases the heat output, etc. etc. etc. until the connection fails.
The fault may have been there from day one.
I can suggest some things to do when installing your new terminal block
1. Check all wires connecting to it. Make sure there is no indication of overheating re: softened or malformed insulation. If there is be sure to cut back the wire till you get to nice clean wire and put on a new connector.
2. Check all connectors which attach to the block. If they are discolored clean them. If there are signs of arcing replace them. If unable to clean replace them. Make sure to get good connection/crimp to the bare wire and use high current rated connectors.
3. Make sure all connectors fit tightly to the block.
4. Lightly coat the block connectors with electrical connection goop (the stuff recommended for all aluminum connections). This helps the connection and eliminates long term corrosion. Do not go crazy with this stuff as it does conduct electricity so only a light coat.
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Does no one have an opinion on the possible causes of this massive meltdown?
I've ordered a replacement terminal block, but hope I'm not recreating the same condition....
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Helllooooo......
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