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Thanks Adam,
I noticed that one side of the plastic center clip that holds the gear on the module was broken off. It might not have made good contacts on the metal connection on the back. Rather than waiting for, and finding out that that's not all that was wrong, I bought the whole ice maker which fixed the problem. I might play around with the old one later. Thanks for your information and I hope we help someone else with the same problem.
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Dear stockit2me, First be sure the temperature in the freezer is stable at 12 degrees F or below If its not the thermostat in the icemaker wont close and allow power to the valve. Check all wiring and the plug to the icemaker. Check the tube where the water comes in to see that its not frozen not allowing water to come into the icemaker cup. If you have an ohm meter, take the harness off the inlet valve coil that supplies the water to the icemaker. With the meter set at RX10 it should read between 200-500 ohms of resistance. If it doesnt read between those two it is defective. The thermostat in the icemaker head can be tested for continuity. It should have continuity at its coldest. ( frozen )
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I get no ice at all. The ice maker won't run at all. The water dispenser works ok. I am only getting 34 volts supplied to the icemaker. This is supplied from the receiver board. There is 115 volts coming into the receiver board and only 34 volts going out. The emmiter board light diagnostic check works ok., (2 flashes with a second delay while flapper door is open) and (LED on solid with flapper door on emmiter closed.) I have replaced the emitter and receiver board with the same results. I have downloaded the manuals here: http://www.applianceblog.com/ma.../in-door_ice4322658A.pdfAny suggestions, ideas, would be greatly appreciated. It's hard to have a scotch on the rocks these days! :(
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