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FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
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[quote=thorning;874204][QUOTE=Doug13031;874103]So I just want to give an update on how the repair went. Problems: When removing the six bolts holding the inner tub to the spinner hub, five of the six broke, which I believe is the new record. Since most broke by just having the heads break off, the tub was still wedged to the shaft hub and would not separate from it at all. At this point I flipped the whole thing over and used a 1.75 inch socket on an large impact driver and took off the nut holding on the outer tub. Then I had to put a block of wood on the end of the shaft and give it a few smacks with a hammer to get the outer tub off. I tried to do it the right way and use a bearing puller to pull out the outer tub bearings, but neither one would budge. I ended up taking a two foot length of iron pipe and pounding out first the inner one with the tub upside down and then turned the tub over onto a couple of block of wood under the bearing area and pounding out the outer bearing from the inside. The wood was necessary to elevate the plastic parts of the tub from the floor, in effect keeping the impact just on the metal parts. Both bearings came out rather easily, just went slowly and evenly around the bearing, making sure not to let them get too crooked. Back to the inner tub, I use a very thin pry bar and slowly separated the hub from the tub, with no breakage. At this point I will give a bearing update, the two outer tub bearings were not that bad, both had a lot of rust on them, but both still spun rather smoothly. The tub seal was in horrible shape, but that was expected. But the real disaster was the two bearings in the spiiner shaft. When I turned that it sounded like gravel, so I had to replace them both also. I put a block of wood on the top of the shaft and pounded out the bottom one which came out stuck around the shaft. I then used a bearing puller on the upper bearing and it came right out. I then pounded off the bearing stuck to the shaft with a length of one inch diameter iron pipe, and it came right off. On the the spinner shaft hub. I could not get the broken bolts out no matter what I tried. I used various broken bolt extractors with no success. So I decided I would have to drill them out. Well that did not go too well. I was using a drill press, but even with that the bit would not stay on the bolt, it would keep slipping off to the side, so no luck there. I then decided I would drill them out from the back side and just put the whole thing back together with bolts with nuts. Well that did not work either, once the drill bit hit the bolt it would slip off to the side. For being such tough bolts, they sure broke easily enough. At this point I was a little ticked off, so I decided to go barbaric on this thing and took a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill many little holes around the bolts, gave them a little smack with a hammer and they were finally gone. The holes were a little bigger, but that was nothing a few washers would not fix. I am not recommending this method by any means, but I have no machine shops around here to take it to, I had to do this myself, and I was on a clock (family needed a washer, four daughters). So, to be clear the part the the bolts screwed into was now gone, and I would have to use nuts on bolts to join the parts back together. I ground the back surface, where the nuts would go, smooth with some grinding wheels. Clean up: I scrubbed out the tubs, the spinners, the transmission until they were all clean inside and out. I wire brushed the spinner shaft and inside all areas where the bearing were to go. I pried off the metal part of the tub seal that stayed on the hub, which incidentally was hard to see. All the corrosion in that area made everything blend together. I only found it by taking apart the new seal so that I could see what I was looking for. Then I wire brushed the whole spinner hub until it was clean, especially where the trans seal went and the tub seal. The part that rode inside the outer tub bearings was very clean and required no clean up at all. Reassembly: The first comment I want to make is about bearings. My machine used the thick one way bearing on the bottom of the outer tub, however it also had the recesses for the white plate with the one way bearing in it that comes with a new clutch pulley assembly. If your tub has two big notches on either side to the large 1.75 inch nut on the bottom of the tub, you can also use the white plate. So I lubed up the bearing and installed the inner tub bearing of the outer tub first with a bearing installer, in retrospect, this was the hardest one to install due to the fact that it cannot be seen while installing it. Be very careful to keep it straight and level. I then flipped the tub over and put in the spacer sleeve(also well lubed) and installed the outer bearing (well lubed). I installed both of the spinner shaft bearings(more lube) into either end of the spinner hub by starting them with a bearing installer and finishing up with some impact sockets of the exact diameter to seat them into place with some gentle tapping. I then lubed up the spinner shaft and inserted it into the bearings. Now to install my modified hub back onto the inner tub. Just for fun I ran a bead of black silicone gasket sealer around the edge of the hub, and set it into place. I then used 5/16 inch bolts, a flat washer, a rubber washer, through the tub and hub and another flat washer and then a lock nut, all stainless steel. Bolted it all up tight and even, we will see how it holds up. Time to put the outer tub onto the inner tub. First I lubed up all the bearings and bearing surfaces with synthetic water proof lube, installed the tub seal and tried to put it together, but it would not go. I finally had to separate the tub seal sleeve from the tub seal, push it down around the spinner hub, and then install the outer tub. That worked great, it went right together. I had to use a large spacer washer (m36 zinc oxide) on top of the outer tub bearing to make up for the size difference between the original unobtainable bearing and the replacement bearing. I then threaded the large nut back on the shaft, but could not tighten it, everything kept spinning, so I gave it a few turns with the impact driver to snug it up good and tight. I then put on the white disk with the one way bearing, the shaft that goes between the two bearings and the clutch pulley and bolted it on. I then put the tub assembly back into the washer. The rest of the assembly was by the book. Install the trans o-ring, well lubed of course, the trans, the spinners, etc. Test: Started it up, ran through the diagnostic quick wash and spinner test, and could barely hear the thing spin it was so quiet, Wow!. No water leakage of any kind. Ran a few small loads through it to check it out, since that is what it would not wash was small loads, and it worked fine. Parts: 1 Tub Seal 25001090 1 Tub O ring 25001105 2 Outer tub bearing 6207-2rs 1 Upper spinner support 6002-2rs 1 Lower shell shaft bearing SCE-910 1 Clutch Pulley 25001169 1 M36 Zinc Oxide washer Synthetic water proof lube Retrospect: If you are going to do this job, plan on doing all the bearings, if one is bad they are likely all bad, and once you are into the machine this far, you might as well go all the way. Second, I am not sure why the inner tub has to be taken off of the spinner hub. The bolts are going to break, and ruin your day, and I believe everything can be replaced with those two parts left intact together. Just take out the whole inner/outer tub assembly as a unit, with help of course, flip it over and remove the large nut on the bottom and separate the two tubs. Everything can then be replaced at that point. The work inside the inner tub will be a little tight, but I think it would be better than the aggravation of breaking off all the bolts. I believe it is only recommended to take it apart by removing those bolts in the service manual because it states to replace the whole outer tub instead of the bearings, and probably the service technician is not able to lift out the whole assembly be himself. Follow-up: I have washed more than twenty loads with no problems at all, very quiet, no leaks, no stains left on clothes. So far my modified hub has caused no problems. All is well, good luck with your repair.[/QUOTE] You are to be commended for your perseverance in doing this repair. Any idea as to the cost of the parts and how much labor you put into it ? Also did you take any photos of it as you progressed ? I am considering doing this on a unit belonging to my neighbor but since it is such a bear of a job I am reluctant to start it due to the high cost and so much labor.[/quote]
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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
jpcjguy
Posted:
Monday, August 20, 2018 7:18:21 PM(UTC)
Doing some pre-check. I have only owned this washer for 5 years - came with the house. So I have no clue if it has been touched by someone else.
Here is a pic of my tub - just wanted opinion on the alignment of the arrows on the tumblers - does this look factory or has someone messed with it?
Thanks!
Joe
jpcjguy
Posted:
Monday, August 20, 2018 10:53:49 AM(UTC)
So I guess it is my turn - I have cleaned and greased the clutch bearings twice but I was out of town the last 5 days and my wife tried to run several loads and the spring got bent in the clutch - I was able to reshape it and I put it back together and still getting the dc error at the 12 minute mark. Take the clothes out and it the spin only cycle worked fine. Tried another load and back to dc error.
My question is about the clutch. I have no problem doing the all the other bearing and seals. It is just biting the bullet on a $100+ clutch that gets me wondering - I have the ability to press bearings.
How "perfect" does that spring have to be? I will tear it down again tonight to see what 3 attempted loads have done to it.
Thanks,
Joe
sotten51@gmail.com
Posted:
Saturday, February 11, 2017 5:24:08 AM(UTC)
Kyle: Is there a video to showto do this Job? How hard is it and how long did it take you?
sotten51@gmail.com
Posted:
Saturday, February 11, 2017 5:19:57 AM(UTC)
Hello Rambler! I think I need to change the bearing on my machine as it is very very loud in the spin cycles. I see you have helped others do this. Is there a video I can watch on how to do it? How difficult is the job?
firefour1
Posted:
Tuesday, February 7, 2017 6:49:52 PM(UTC)
Hello Everyone.
Was able to find my original questions on this post about a water leak and bearing noise back in February of 2011. My model and serial are as follows:
Model: FAV6800A
Serial: 10886157EA
At that time, was able to order the parts and use the information from this post to replace the tub and drive bearings. After the rebuild my washer worked as new.
Fast forward to Sept 2016 and I noticed the bearings were becoming noisy again on the spin cycle. After trying to decide if I wanted to rebuild the washer again, went ahead and purchased all 4 bearing and seals. The parts arrived and last weekend I performed the rebuild. Am very happy to report the washer works perfectly and is very quiet during the wash and spin cycles.
Things that I noticed the 2nd time around:
a. The inside of the washer did not have nearly as much gunk under the clothes spinners or around the transmission. I attribute this to the switch to liquid laundry detergent from the powder we used prior to the rebuild. We also leave the washer lid in the up position when not in use to help dry out the inner workings
b. The o'ring seal did not leak. The small drive bearing and shaft running to the clutch were dry and rust free.
c. The main tub seal to spin bearing seal did not leak. The new design must be more robust than what Maytag originally used.
What surprised me was the upper main tub bearing was completely worn out even though there was not a water leak. I pried off the cover that protects the ball bearing to inspect and found the bearing was very worn with metal mixed in with the grease. The lower bearing was in better shape but needed to be replaced too.
Also, the transmission drive bearing was beginning to wear out. When turned, it had friction for part of the turn, not smooth as would be expected. Note the needle bearing near the clutch was the only bearing in good shape.
With the second failure at the 5 year mark after the rebuild, it appears that the bearing system for the main drum as well as the transmission drive are under-designed. It's really too bad that the design engineers at Maytag didn't pay attention to the fundamentals on this. Both my wife and I like the washer and it does a good job of getting the clothes clean. Most likely, this is the last time I'll perform the rebuild so we'll be looking to purchase new in 2022.
Take care and thanks so much to all of you for the great information listed in this post.
Kyle
ski49
Posted:
Sunday, October 2, 2016 6:33:00 AM(UTC)
How do you rotate the two spinners in the basket of a 10 series fav9800 so arrows point back to 12 o'clock as suggested? When I try so spin in the tub as it sits now they do not move. Am I missing something here do take something apart and then rotate to that position? Any pictures would be great, thanks
lostdalinkwent
Posted:
Saturday, March 5, 2016 12:46:26 PM(UTC)
Anyone in the Virginia area want one of these machines?
dh1200s
Posted:
Sunday, December 27, 2015 3:33:02 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime
Apparently... I am wrong. This odd looking bearing that seemed to be both-ways, was apparently my one-way bearing that was shot due to tub seal leakage and the top bearing being locked up (I'm guessing).
Reason is... my machine is continually getting a DC error. It'll push all the clothes to one side and beat itself to death.
I read through these posts, but failed to find my previous thread here;
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW - cannot complete "Quick service cycle"
Which clearly Dick explains my model needs the ONE-WAY bearing to function properly.... oh well, another 2hrs once I get the bearing and it truly will be back in business once again. ...just frustrating that I find the info today, as I notice the washing machine beating itself to death.:mad:
Sorry I no longer receive heads up e-mails for these post. Hope it all got worked out for you.....Dick
Johnnyairtime
Posted:
Saturday, September 26, 2015 10:00:08 AM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime
Dick... I have the 17 series. It did NOT have a one-way bearing in the outer tub assembly. The top bearing (in the outer tub) was locked up solid with rust, but labeled as a 6207-2RS. The bottom, is as I've pictured previously and like none I've ever seen, but definitely not one-way.
Apparently... I am wrong. This odd looking bearing that seemed to be both-ways, was apparently my one-way bearing that was shot due to tub seal leakage and the top bearing being locked up (I'm guessing).
Reason is... my machine is continually getting a DC error. It'll push all the clothes to one side and beat itself to death.
Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime
I'm going to reassemble mine with the 6207-2RS and no M36 shim (Labor Day weekend, and all is closed). Instead, I made my own shim out of 1.75" .090 tubing. It only needed to be an 1/8" or 3/16" thick or so (see below picture). Easy peasy. The bear of a chore, was to get out the other half of the old lower bearing (outer tub). I was cursin' a bit, but got it out.
It's all back together... and runs like a champ. SO QUIET once again. Ahhh... no more jet engine sound in the garage.
I found my top bearing in the outer tub to be main issue, and the clutch as second issue. I didn't disect the clutch, I just replaced it. But between the two items, I'm sure it was it's demise.
I read through these posts, but failed to find my previous thread here;
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW - cannot complete "Quick service cycle"
Which clearly Dick explains my model needs the ONE-WAY bearing to function properly.... oh well, another 2hrs once I get the bearing and it truly will be back in business once again. ...just frustrating that I find the info today, as I notice the washing machine beating itself to death.:mad:
Johnnyairtime
Posted:
Saturday, September 5, 2015 1:08:03 PM(UTC)
Originally Posted by: dh1200s
.............
What are the first two digits of your Serial Number of your FAV6800A or FAV9800A?
Maytag redesigned the Outer Tub I believe starting with Series 12 and above machines. If your machine is a Series 10 or11 you will use standard off the shelf 6207-2RS Bearings. If your machine is a Series 12 or above you can still use 6207-2RS bearings but you will need to shim out I believe the lower Outer Tub bearing on reassembly.
If you need to replace the Outer Tub Bearings;
Qty 2 6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed (note can be used for Series 12 thru 17 but requires some mod).
...........Dick
Dick... I have the 17 series. It did NOT have a one-way bearing in the outer tub assembly. The top bearing (in the outer tub) was locked up solid with rust, but labeled as a 6207-2RS. The bottom, is as I've pictured previously and like none I've ever seen, but definitely not one-way.
I'm going to reassemble mine with the 6207-2RS and no M36 shim (Labor Day weekend, and all is closed). Instead, I made my own shim out of 1.75" .090 tubing. It only needed to be an 1/8" or 3/16" thick or so (see below picture). Easy peasy. The bear of a chore, was to get out the other half of the old lower bearing (outer tub). I was cursin' a bit, but got it out.
It's all back together... and runs like a champ. SO QUIET once again. Ahhh... no more jet engine sound in the garage.
I found my top bearing in the outer tub to be main issue, and the clutch as second issue. I didn't disect the clutch, I just replaced it. But between the two items, I'm sure it was it's demise.
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