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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
jpcjguy Posted: Monday, August 20, 2018 7:18:21 PM(UTC)
 
Doing some pre-check. I have only owned this washer for 5 years - came with the house. So I have no clue if it has been touched by someone else.
Here is a pic of my tub - just wanted opinion on the alignment of the arrows on the tumblers - does this look factory or has someone messed with it?

Thanks!
Joe
jpcjguy Posted: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:53:49 AM(UTC)
 
So I guess it is my turn - I have cleaned and greased the clutch bearings twice but I was out of town the last 5 days and my wife tried to run several loads and the spring got bent in the clutch - I was able to reshape it and I put it back together and still getting the dc error at the 12 minute mark. Take the clothes out and it the spin only cycle worked fine. Tried another load and back to dc error.
My question is about the clutch. I have no problem doing the all the other bearing and seals. It is just biting the bullet on a $100+ clutch that gets me wondering - I have the ability to press bearings.
How "perfect" does that spring have to be? I will tear it down again tonight to see what 3 attempted loads have done to it.

Thanks,
Joe
sotten51@gmail.com Posted: Saturday, February 11, 2017 5:24:08 AM(UTC)
 
Kyle: Is there a video to showto do this Job? How hard is it and how long did it take you?
sotten51@gmail.com Posted: Saturday, February 11, 2017 5:19:57 AM(UTC)
 
Hello Rambler! I think I need to change the bearing on my machine as it is very very loud in the spin cycles. I see you have helped others do this. Is there a video I can watch on how to do it? How difficult is the job?
firefour1 Posted: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 6:49:52 PM(UTC)
 
Hello Everyone.

Was able to find my original questions on this post about a water leak and bearing noise back in February of 2011. My model and serial are as follows:
Model: FAV6800A
Serial: 10886157EA

At that time, was able to order the parts and use the information from this post to replace the tub and drive bearings. After the rebuild my washer worked as new.

Fast forward to Sept 2016 and I noticed the bearings were becoming noisy again on the spin cycle. After trying to decide if I wanted to rebuild the washer again, went ahead and purchased all 4 bearing and seals. The parts arrived and last weekend I performed the rebuild. Am very happy to report the washer works perfectly and is very quiet during the wash and spin cycles.

Things that I noticed the 2nd time around:
a. The inside of the washer did not have nearly as much gunk under the clothes spinners or around the transmission. I attribute this to the switch to liquid laundry detergent from the powder we used prior to the rebuild. We also leave the washer lid in the up position when not in use to help dry out the inner workings
b. The o'ring seal did not leak. The small drive bearing and shaft running to the clutch were dry and rust free.
c. The main tub seal to spin bearing seal did not leak. The new design must be more robust than what Maytag originally used.

What surprised me was the upper main tub bearing was completely worn out even though there was not a water leak. I pried off the cover that protects the ball bearing to inspect and found the bearing was very worn with metal mixed in with the grease. The lower bearing was in better shape but needed to be replaced too.

Also, the transmission drive bearing was beginning to wear out. When turned, it had friction for part of the turn, not smooth as would be expected. Note the needle bearing near the clutch was the only bearing in good shape.

With the second failure at the 5 year mark after the rebuild, it appears that the bearing system for the main drum as well as the transmission drive are under-designed. It's really too bad that the design engineers at Maytag didn't pay attention to the fundamentals on this. Both my wife and I like the washer and it does a good job of getting the clothes clean. Most likely, this is the last time I'll perform the rebuild so we'll be looking to purchase new in 2022.

Take care and thanks so much to all of you for the great information listed in this post.

Kyle
ski49 Posted: Sunday, October 2, 2016 6:33:00 AM(UTC)
 
How do you rotate the two spinners in the basket of a 10 series fav9800 so arrows point back to 12 o'clock as suggested? When I try so spin in the tub as it sits now they do not move. Am I missing something here do take something apart and then rotate to that position? Any pictures would be great, thanks
lostdalinkwent Posted: Saturday, March 5, 2016 12:46:26 PM(UTC)
 
Anyone in the Virginia area want one of these machines?
dh1200s Posted: Sunday, December 27, 2015 3:33:02 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post
Apparently... I am wrong. This odd looking bearing that seemed to be both-ways, was apparently my one-way bearing that was shot due to tub seal leakage and the top bearing being locked up (I'm guessing).

Reason is... my machine is continually getting a DC error. It'll push all the clothes to one side and beat itself to death.



I read through these posts, but failed to find my previous thread here;
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW - cannot complete "Quick service cycle"

Which clearly Dick explains my model needs the ONE-WAY bearing to function properly.... oh well, another 2hrs once I get the bearing and it truly will be back in business once again. ...just frustrating that I find the info today, as I notice the washing machine beating itself to death.:mad:


Sorry I no longer receive heads up e-mails for these post. Hope it all got worked out for you.....Dick
Johnnyairtime Posted: Saturday, September 26, 2015 10:00:08 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post
Dick... I have the 17 series. It did NOT have a one-way bearing in the outer tub assembly. The top bearing (in the outer tub) was locked up solid with rust, but labeled as a 6207-2RS. The bottom, is as I've pictured previously and like none I've ever seen, but definitely not one-way.


Apparently... I am wrong. This odd looking bearing that seemed to be both-ways, was apparently my one-way bearing that was shot due to tub seal leakage and the top bearing being locked up (I'm guessing).

Reason is... my machine is continually getting a DC error. It'll push all the clothes to one side and beat itself to death.

Originally Posted by: Johnnyairtime Go to Quoted Post

I'm going to reassemble mine with the 6207-2RS and no M36 shim (Labor Day weekend, and all is closed). Instead, I made my own shim out of 1.75" .090 tubing. It only needed to be an 1/8" or 3/16" thick or so (see below picture). Easy peasy. The bear of a chore, was to get out the other half of the old lower bearing (outer tub). I was cursin' a bit, but got it out.

It's all back together... and runs like a champ. SO QUIET once again. Ahhh... no more jet engine sound in the garage.

I found my top bearing in the outer tub to be main issue, and the clutch as second issue. I didn't disect the clutch, I just replaced it. But between the two items, I'm sure it was it's demise.


I read through these posts, but failed to find my previous thread here;
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW - cannot complete "Quick service cycle"

Which clearly Dick explains my model needs the ONE-WAY bearing to function properly.... oh well, another 2hrs once I get the bearing and it truly will be back in business once again. ...just frustrating that I find the info today, as I notice the washing machine beating itself to death.:mad:
Johnnyairtime Posted: Saturday, September 5, 2015 1:08:03 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: dh1200s Go to Quoted Post
.............
What are the first two digits of your Serial Number of your FAV6800A or FAV9800A?

Maytag redesigned the Outer Tub I believe starting with Series 12 and above machines. If your machine is a Series 10 or11 you will use standard off the shelf 6207-2RS Bearings. If your machine is a Series 12 or above you can still use 6207-2RS bearings but you will need to shim out I believe the lower Outer Tub bearing on reassembly.

If you need to replace the Outer Tub Bearings;
Qty 2 6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed (note can be used for Series 12 thru 17 but requires some mod).

...........Dick


Dick... I have the 17 series. It did NOT have a one-way bearing in the outer tub assembly. The top bearing (in the outer tub) was locked up solid with rust, but labeled as a 6207-2RS. The bottom, is as I've pictured previously and like none I've ever seen, but definitely not one-way.

I'm going to reassemble mine with the 6207-2RS and no M36 shim (Labor Day weekend, and all is closed). Instead, I made my own shim out of 1.75" .090 tubing. It only needed to be an 1/8" or 3/16" thick or so (see below picture). Easy peasy. The bear of a chore, was to get out the other half of the old lower bearing (outer tub). I was cursin' a bit, but got it out.

It's all back together... and runs like a champ. SO QUIET once again. Ahhh... no more jet engine sound in the garage.

I found my top bearing in the outer tub to be main issue, and the clutch as second issue. I didn't disect the clutch, I just replaced it. But between the two items, I'm sure it was it's demise.