I also left the icemaker in the freezer for 30 minutes and thermosasate's resistance was some where near 4-5 ohm (varying frequently). It seems that thermostate is working. It became open in room-temperature.
I can change the whole icemaker which is available locally in Austin for $135+tax but I am wondering what is wrong with existing icemaker module. Electrically it looks fine , mechanically something can be wrong.
Its ice-making module is getting stuck in the middle in ice (facing downward), do you think motor-module is bad ? Motor-module's price is almost same as icemaker at local store so I will change whole icemaker if I have to.

Hello,
My icemaker has stopped making ice.
Symtoms: There is ice in the icemaker and it is not being pushed out . The push arm (looks like big white comb) is frozen in the ice.

I have gone though previous post on the same subject and gone through suggested diagnosis and still not able to figure out what is wrong. Here is what I have done...

1. Water-line valve check: In the back of the refrigerator , I switched the solenoid connection and there is water flowing to the ice maker chamber.
2. Removed the icemake-module. Opened the left side cover (white cover) as well as Motor-module. Motor resistance is 4.5K , heater-resistance is 75Ohm, thermostate reads open and resistance of black-wire (it has thermal fuse) is 1.5 Ohm.
3. Optical sensor works as expected. It means that when there is no optical connection, LED flashes twice after a second stop. It becomes solid red when there is optical connection.
4. I let the icemaker module to stay outside for one day and it put it back. After few minutes , there was water in the ice-chamber. The white-arm of the ice-pusher was pointed outside.So it basically rotates.

Now I am not sure what to check. BTW, where is T&H which is shorted by jumper wire by some people to debug?

Thanks for your help,
Anil Kumar