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I have exactly the same problem.
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Originally Posted by: scooperfl  The button combination you gave gets you to the test mode, but the valves do not operate the the button you specified (or any other). I will look for the spec sheet in the washer. Scooper, That would be best, your tech sheet will have more specific information for your washer, versus a general tech sheet, like the one I have. :) :) :)
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The button combination you gave gets you to the test mode, but the valves do not operate the the button you specified (or any other). I will look for the spec sheet in the washer.
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Originally Posted by: scooperfl I have the exact same problem with a Samsung WF448AP.
Was this solved?
Where can I get a "tech sheet" with diagnostic testing instructions?
Recently, the fabric softener dispenser stopped working.
1) The softener in the cup remains undiluted, so no water is being added to the dispenser during the cycle.
2) The drawer is perfectly clean and I verified the siphoning action by adding water to the dispenser with a the cup. After adding water, it completely empties.
3) I verified that the water input screens are clean.
4) The machine is level, we have high pressure city water, and we used the hoses that came with the washer.
5) I took the top off the washer and verified the operation of the 5 solenoid valves. They do all work at various parts of the cycle.
By the way, regarding the "Guide Water": On examination, the water guide is a water chemistry sensor with 2 fixed silver plates in the cold water inlet stream-no diverter operation that I can see. It does not look like it would affect the dispenser operation. I am guessing it measures water hardness. Scooper, Here is the manufacturers reccomended procedure to test the fill valves and the control board. The tech sheet for your washer, should be attached to the removable back panel or attached to the side panel on the interior left wall. Otherwise, you'd need to contact the manufacturer. SUBJECT: Testing the water valves and main board function.
SYMPTOM: A water valve is not working but it is unknown if the valve is the fault or the main board controlling the valve has a failure.
REPAIR: Procedure is as follows:
1. Unplug the connector of the suspected valve and measure the resistance across the terminals. Resistance should read about 1.14Ώ. If this method fails to produce the bad valve proceed to step 2.
2. Place the machine into the Quick Test Mode by pressing the Spin Key, Soil Level
Key and Power Key at the same time with the machine turned off.
3. Press the Temp Key to turn on the valves. The sequence of valves for every press of the key is Pre Wash cold valve, Cold wash valve, Bleach Cold wash valve and Hot water valve.
4. Once the bad valve is identified remove a connector from a working valve and place it on the suspected valve. If the valve still does not function replace the valve. If the valve starts working the problem is the main board.
Good Luck,
:) :) :)
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I have the exact same problem with a Samsung WF448AP.
Was this solved?
Where can I get a "tech sheet" with diagnostic testing instructions?
Recently, the fabric softener dispenser stopped working.
1) The softener in the cup remains undiluted, so no water is being added to the dispenser during the cycle.
2) The drawer is perfectly clean and I verified the siphoning action by adding water to the dispenser with a the cup. After adding water, it completely empties.
3) I verified that the water input screens are clean.
4) The machine is level, we have high pressure city water, and we used the hoses that came with the washer.
5) I took the top off the washer and verified the operation of the 5 solenoid valves. They do all work at various parts of the cycle.
By the way, regarding the "Guide Water": On examination, the water guide is a water chemistry sensor with 2 fixed silver plates in the cold water inlet stream-no diverter operation that I can see. It does not look like it would affect the dispenser operation. I am guessing it measures water hardness.
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Originally Posted by: TX2110 What exactly is the water guide? TX, That's where the proper tech sheet comes into play. At least that way, I could determine what it does and how it does it, so I can advise you properly. :( :( :(
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What exactly is the water guide? Originally Posted by: TX2110 Thank you so much for your help, I will go to the store this afternoon and then follow your recommendations.
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Thank you so much for your help, I will go to the store this afternoon and then follow your recommendations. Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team TX,
Yes, everything sorta, makes sense, Using the parts diagram for referrence.
I just don't have the Technical info I need, but it sounds like you have a grasp on the situation.
To test your water supply pressure, You can get a Plumbers Water Pressure Guage at most hardware stores or the big box guys. I would also reccomend a garden hose "Y" gate,so you can check the static pressure, and then you can test the pressure drop, under a load(washer filling,and sink faucet open, etc.).
Right now, it sounds like you have decent water pressure,to the unit, and that water guide could be the problem, it wouldn't be the first time a diverter valve caused a problem.
I just wish and hope, some of the inquiries I made get a response.
If all else fails, after you test the water pressure, if It's OK, start with the water guide.
:cool: :cool: :cool:
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Originally Posted by: TX2110 Joe I broke down the machine a little and looked at the operation of the solinoids. There are 5 solinoids in total ; a 4 pack and a single for the hot water. They all operate. I am starting to wonder about my available water pressure. I looked closly at the water manifold over the cups. It apears that what should happen is the main cold and the bleach solinoid should open and provide enough force to reach the rinse cup and dispense the softener. They both come on at the right time during the final rinse but the water never can reach the front of the manifold to drop in the right cup. I am supposed to have a minimum of 7.2 psi but I don't know how I would verifiy the pressure. The other thing I am wondering is if my problem may be related to a part called the water guide. The main cold water supply solinoid feeds the water guide plastic box first and then a line runs from the water guide to the main cold water input on the dispenser manifold. Does any of this make sense? thank you. TX, Yes, everything sorta, makes sense, Using the parts diagram for referrence. I just don't have the Technical info I need, but it sounds like you have a grasp on the situation. To test your water supply pressure, You can get a Plumbers Water Pressure Guage at most hardware stores or the big box guys. I would also reccomend a garden hose "Y" gate,so you can check the static pressure, and then you can test the pressure drop, under a load(washer filling,and sink faucet open, etc.). Right now, it sounds like you have decent water pressure,to the unit, and that water guide could be the problem, it wouldn't be the first time a diverter valve caused a problem. I just wish and hope, some of the inquiries I made get a response. If all else fails, after you test the water pressure, if It's OK, start with the water guide. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Joe I broke down the machine a little and looked at the operation of the solinoids. There are 5 solinoids in total ; a 4 pack and a single for the hot water. They all operate. I am starting to wonder about my available water pressure. I looked closly at the water manifold over the cups. It apears that what should happen is the main cold and the bleach solinoid should open and provide enough force to reach the rinse cup and dispense the softener. They both come on at the right time during the final rinse but the water never can reach the front of the manifold to drop in the right cup. I am supposed to have a minimum of 7.2 psi but I don't know how I would verifiy the pressure. The other thing I am wondering is if my problem may be related to a part called the water guide. The main cold water supply solinoid feeds the water guide plastic box first and then a line runs from the water guide to the main cold water input on the dispenser manifold. Does any of this make sense? thank you. Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team TX,
The Quick test is not the best test to run.
You should run the Board Output Test, and the Board Input Test.
(it sounds like you found the tech sheet for your machine ?)
You can activate all the components of your washer's system and you'll have a beter idea of what's malfunctioning or has failed.
The information I have available to me is deffinitely different than yours.
and I don't want to mislead or mis inform you.
I will continue to search for the tech sheet for your unit, in the mean time.
Thanks,
:confused: :confused: :confused:
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