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No, don't use a drill, you will contaminate the bearings with metal filings. Others have done this succesfully.
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Originally Posted by: richappy  I would punch a hole in the top cover of the tranny with a sharp wood chisel. Peal back the metal and add oil, around 45 weight. Then just clean the hole edges and seal with silicone cement. Yikes! Really?! Something inside of me balks at ripping a hole in the cover, although it does have a simple elegance to it :). Is it better to use a chisle, or maybe a drill?
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I would punch a hole in the top cover of the tranny with a sharp wood chisel. Peal back the metal and add oil, around 45 weight. Then just clean the hole edges and seal with silicone cement.
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I had problems with my kemore washer not spinning/aggitating. I took it appart and discovered a broken coupler and replaced it. My error came in the fact that as I was working on it, I flipped the washer (without the case) upside down so I could reach everything. Oil started dripping out of a little hole in the top of the gear case. I didn't notice it at first and panicked when I saw it. Figured I'd really messed it up. I let it sit like that for a few days waiting for the repairman, who looked at it and walked away. So I am back to working on on my own. I thought I had blown a seal, but now I think I just shouldn't have flipped it over. At this point, I have the gear case out of the machine and need to replace the oil. How do I do that? Is it just a matter of opening it up and pouring in the new oil? Also, should I be able to turn the shaft by hand? I can't. Don't know if that is a good thing or not...
Thanks for your help.
Jim
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Thanks for the help. while i have the gearbox off I should replace the 90 weight gear oil with the right stuff so I know that wont be an issue, correct.
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Here's a step by step for a clutch repacement:
The first thing that you will need to do is remove the two Phillips screws that are located at the back of the control console, (Part #49 on the parts breakdown of the control panel.)
After you have done this, pull the control panel forward and upward.
Next you will want to use a standard screwdriver, and pry the clips out at the back sides of the unit that connect the back to the case, this is done by inserting the screwdriver into the front slot, and push the screwdriver back, the clips will pop up.
Unclip the wires that connect to the case in the center, then grasp the case and pull the top of it forward, the case should slide off exposing the whole interior workings of the machine.
Now pull the top cap of the agitator off, there will be another cap under this, reach into the agitator and pull that cap up. Under this you should see a 7/16” bolt, you will need an extension to reach this and remove it.
Grasp the bottom of the agitator and pull upward and remove the whole agitator.
At the bottom in the center you will see the pump, it is held into place by two clips, remove them, and then pull the pump off, you do not need to disconnect the hoses from the pump.
Behind this you will see the motor, it is also held in place by clips also sometimes these clips will have screws through them, it will not be necessary to reinstall these screws, they are for shipping purposes only. You will probably need to use a standard screwdriver to remove these. You will also need to remove the wires to the motor, if there is a capacitor on the side of the motor, remove the leads to it also, (it will not matter which lead you hook to on the capacitor when you re-install it.
Now you will have the gear case exposed, it is easier if you tip the machine back, you will find three ½” bolts, remove these and the gear case will slide down out of the machine.
DO NOT LEFT THE GEARCASE BY THE SHAFT AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE GEARCASE.
Once you have completely removed the gear case and have it setting on the floor in front of you, you will see a bowl shaped object on the top, this is the clutch inside the bowl is a ring, you can use a pair of pliers to remove this.
You might try to turn this ring inside the bowl before you remove if you can easily slide it then this is defiantly what you will need to replace.
There is a washer that you will have to pull off of the shaft, below this you will see a clip that will have to be removed, and then another ring, I have found it easier to remove this with a screwdriver, once it is off, then pull the bowl upward
Reverse this procedure, reading the directions that come with the clutch
You will also need to replace the plastic which is the brake driver cam. It is held in place by a c/e clip, once you have done this turn and push upward on the brake so that it will be high enough when you go to reinstall the gear case.
Just reverse the procedures to reassemble the unit.
Nat
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How do you change the clutch? I will do that and change the tranny oil. I read on another website the weight was 90 gear oil. I changed the coupler after taking the motor off. I took the tranny cover off thinking that some kind of shear pin broke. I should have done research on the net first instead of just taking stuff apart.
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No, Sounds like the clutch is bad too. And the oil you put in the tranny is too thick, if your lucky it didn't mess it up. Probably 30 weight.
How exactly did you change the coupler?
Nat
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I cut the 2 wires and spliced them together and ground out the ground wire, also it does spin with nothing in it when you add a few clothes it slows down/stops. Should I be able to hold the drum from spinning with hand?
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