Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Gene Posted: Friday, October 3, 2008 10:40:43 AM(UTC)
 
We're glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.
Gabe72 Posted: Wednesday, October 1, 2008 7:04:24 AM(UTC)
 
Gene, I was able to get the dryer working. I bought a multimeter last night and checked everything. The original cycling thermostat was bad but I replaced that. After checking everything I noticed that I had no 240 readings on the wires going to the dryer from the wall, it was all 120. I checked the breaker and BINGO, one of the double breakers was tripped. I reset it and all was woorking fine. Thanks for all your help and everyone else who gave me input and ideas.
SublimeMasterJW Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 5:33:44 PM(UTC)
 
The timer has a leg marked RH. Remove that wire and check for continuity between there and any other leg of the timer. Move the knob slowly and keep checking for continuity. IF you cannot get a reading then the timer is BAD.
Gene Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 4:29:53 PM(UTC)
 
sho4go,

The first thing I would do is check the exhaust line, the vent outlet and the air ducts inside the dryer for any clog. If you need more help, post the complete model number of the dryer, please.

Gene.
Gene Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 4:25:37 PM(UTC)
 
Gabe72,

Visual inspection does not work with electrical parts. You have to have a simple multimeter and measure the voltage at the heating element (at least one of the wires must be removed from the heating element). It suppose to be 120VAC between each wire and ground, and 240VAC between both wires.

You also have to check the heating element for continuity across both terminals with at least one wire removed from the terminal. If the reading is ∞ then the heating element has to be replaced.

You also have to check the heating element for continuity between each terminal and ground. If the reading is 0 then the heating element has to be replaced.

If you need help with the right part numbers, post the complete model number of the dryer.

Gene.
Gabe72 Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 7:15:57 AM(UTC)
 
ok well heres an update, i took all my thermostats and fuse to my local appliance parts store and he checked them all, only one was bad. I bought it and went home and replaced it and it STILL!! didnt heat up. The only thing I didnt get checked was the coils themselves, but i removed it and checked it for breaks and there are no breaks, looks brand new. What else can I check?
sho4go Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 3:07:45 PM(UTC)
 
This is on a White-Westinghouse; If the limiter fails, will it prevent the timer motor from running? This in a B&B environment & my housekeeper told me that the control knob on the timer was not advancing, however, if I connect the timer motor direct to power, it does run. Would the limiter be wired in such a fashion as to interrupt power to the timer motor? The igniter lights the flame on start-up but after temp is achieved it never comes back on.
SublimeMasterJW Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 12:03:05 PM(UTC)
 
If the dryer is turning with no heat and the tester lights up then unplug the dryer and remove the heater. Inspect it for the break or take it to the parts store and let em check it for you to be sure. they would rather check it than sell you the part. They do not refund electrical stuff. Peeps do not like to buy second hand stuff.
Gabe72 Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 11:50:55 AM(UTC)
 
there is juice at the terminals, i just dont know how much, im using one of those testers that just lights up if there is a current.
SublimeMasterJW Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 11:48:00 AM(UTC)
 
You have a limit problem. Check that limit at the top of the heater element chamber.