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Voltage at terminal block reads 238v all the way across. 120v from red to white, 118v from black to white.
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I believe, that if the thermal fuse is out, the machine will not turn on at all.
If it wasn't the cycling thermostat, I'd still have to say it's a power issue. double check your power as mentioned in pervious post. If there is 120 volts going to the motor the dryer WILL run, but it will not heat.
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have you checked the thermal fuse on back of dryer i think the part youre looking at is the cycling thermostat check fuse first
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Ok, I received the part mentioned above and thought I'd test continuity before installing. The results are the same as the old part. The outer leads have continuity, however, the inner leads don't. I installed the part and there is no difference. I still have no heat. Where to next?
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You're welcome. That should do it! While you have the back off you may want to vacuum out the interior and clean around the fan to help frevent lint fires. It's suggested to do that once per year.
Nat
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Ok. Thanks a ton for all the help. I just ordered the part and I'm hoping that does the trick.
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Ok, that's your problem it's called a thermostat fix on the breakdown from Whirlpool. Part number AP3131939 from here.
That should get you going.
Nat
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I believe it's part # 21, section 3 on the parts search portion of this website.
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I've checked the voltage on the terminal block and it checks out. The part number is 3387134. It says "HEATER 120V" on it.
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Where exactly is the part you are calling a cycling thermostat? The model number given doesn't have one. Does it have a part number on it?
You may also want to check the red & black wire on the terminal block on the back of the machine, make sure you are getting 240 there. If not it could be in your cord.
Nat
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