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This is my third try at posting this, it keeps getting rejected.
I ordered a new motor switch but the one that arrived was a broken one in a resealed package. Apparently some douchenozzle returned his broken switch for a refund. The vendor sent me a new on via priority mail. The washing machine now works! Yea!
Now the dryer died. I already took it apart and found that the belt is broken.
Thank you gentlemen for your help, advice, and patience. I now know far more about washers than I ever expected to.
Thanks again.
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Good job you have found the problem
Replacing it is simple.
Let use know the outcome of your repair.
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New development. I unscrewed the connector block from the motor and found that the pivot pin for the the little white nubby thing is broken. A little bit of reading and it looks like the nubby thing is the start switch.
I'm guessing that all I have to replace is the 62850 start switch.
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It's taken me a while to get back to my washer issue. That silly thing called "work", especially more of pain since my normal shift is 11 hours. But that is neither here nor there.
Pulled the motor out and have it on my bench. Five wires, left to right: black white with black stripe, blue, yellow and white. There's another connector dangling off the motor with a molex connector with a wihte/orange and white/purple wires.
Black to yellow: 5.9 ohms
Blue to white: 2.0 ohms
Blue to white/black: 2.0 ohms
White/orange to white/purple: 4.3 ohms
Black to red: open
There's a little white nubby thing that pokes out of the connector box. If I push that up, I get a reading of of .5 ohms. If I fiddle with it a bit, the reading jumps up and then bounces around.
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the start windings may read 5.6
this depends on whether you have a two or three speed motor
if you get a reading of somewhere between 5.4 to 8.2 then the start windings are OK
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So the motor is the final piece of this puzzle I think.
Check the ohms resistance of the start windings and the primary windings of the motor.
unplug the wire harness off the motor and check ohms across the lead with the black wire and the yellow wire. it should read roughly 7.8
then read the ohms across the blue wire and the white wire you should read 1.2 to 1.5
also check for continuity between where the red wire connects and the black wire lead
here you will check to see if the centrifugal switch is connecting thru to the start windings
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So the new timer came, I installed it, and nothing changed. I pulled the cabinet off again and checked the lead from the capacitor to the motor connection (that big white connector with lots of wires) and it has continuity.
Just for grins, I pulled the motor out just to make sure that the coupling hadn't broken a third time and was jamming things up. Nope. Everything is fine.
To recap.
New timer. It ticks and turns.
Lid switch works.
New capacitor.
Pump turns and has nothing stuck in it in it.
Motor turns freely.
More thoughts. I really hate the idea of calling a repair guy out and having him charge me $100 to fix the problem in 30 seconds.
If it wasn't for the big stack of laundry building up, I'd be enjoying this process.
Thanks for the suggestions so far. I know that troubleshooting is a process of elimination.
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Still waiting on the timer so I decided to look at the pump.
Used my drill powered pump to pump the water out of the tub. Pulled the cabinet off. Detached the pump from the motor and found that it turned freely. The motor shaft turns freely as well.
So I got the big pliers and squeezed the hose clamp to pull the hoses off the pump. Ooops. A ton of water came out. After I mopped up the water, I looked into the pump and didn't see a thing. Well, other than the pump impeller and it turned freely.
Put everything back together.
I'm really getting the hang of taking this washer apart quickly.
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If the new timer arrives and you have the same problem then the final solution would be to check the wiring. Something is preventing the power from getting to the start windings on the motor. Check to see if the red wire leading from the capacitor to the motor terminal has continuity. I have had times where the red wire has broken off right as it enters the terminal and needs to be repaired.
I am going to create a video based on this problem as I had a repair job today with this same issue.
The capacitor was ok
Nothing hanging up the pump from turning
The motor start windings ohmed out at 7.8
the primary windings ohmed at 1.2
the motor turn by hand freely
the timer was working properly
then I found the broken wire
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A small sock (such as a toddler's) , maybe a big load, can be thrown, by centrifugal force when in spin cycle over the edge of the basket and fall between the basket and tub, ending up in the drain hole that exits out of the tub to the pump.
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