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It was the lid switch! Woohoo - all is working again! Thank you for all your help, Eric; it was very much appreciated!
Annie
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It is not necessary to cut the wires. See this video on how to make a jumper for testing. You should not leave it jumped or bypassed permanently. It is a safety device. The type of switch you have is the second one in the video. Eric
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Thank you, Eric.
So to bypass, I leave the ground in place and connect the other 2 wires to each other by cutting them off of the harness and connecting them via a wire nut and then putting electric tape around the whole thing. Correct?
And when doing the bypass, do I first need to put the drain pump back on for any reason? I am thinking I don't since I am only checking to see if the machine will spin at this point. If it does, my thoughts are that I then put the whole thing back together and try to run an actual full cycle. Please let me know any faulty thinking I am having with this. I just want to be sure I am not missing anything before embarking on this first time "mission". Thank you!
Annie
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Yes, it may be the lid switch. It only affects drain and spin so go ahead and bypass it.
Eric
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The model number is LXR9445JQ0.
Also, I checked the drain pump to see if the wheel inside turns easily and it does. I also checked to be sure the part of the pump where it attaches to the motor shaft (not sure if I am using the correct terms for these parts) still has the nice square ends and it does. Now I am wondering if maybe it is not the drain pump, after all? Perhaps it is the lid switch? I am thinking of by-passing the switch and checking to see if the machine will spin. Good idea or bad idea?
Again, thank you for any shared thoughts.
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We need the model number of the machine.
Eric
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Hello all - our washer does not drain nor spin. I took off the cover and checked for a blockage in any of the hoses and found none. I am now suspecting the drain pump. Before I buy another one, however, my question is this: when setting the dial to 'spin', the area behind the dial makes a low buzzy, hummy type of noise. This makes me wonder if the problem may not be something other than the drain pump? Or would it make that noise up by the dial also when the broken pump is not allowing the washer to perform the task asked for? I do not have many tools like the multi-meters (I think that is what they are called) to check wiring and such, and I don't want to get any tools beyond the ones I have, simply because I am not anticipating doing many types of these repairs in the future. Currently, however, the finances are a bit tight and would prefer to at least try to do the repair myself. I found the drain pump is a low price so am willing to gamble on that. Any thoughts/ advice would be appreciated!
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