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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Simon / APP Team Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 5:09:35 PM(UTC)
 
Hi.

First check the power supply.The cord, connections and you power outlet. Plug the fridge in to different receptacle.

Simon.
user1027 Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 4:18:38 PM(UTC)
 
Howdy - thanks for the quick reply. I don't think it's the door switch because either all three work (light, fan, compressor) or none. So I will try your suggestion with the timer. Also I guess it could be in the harness, although I tried jiggling that around to provoke it...

Thanks again.
Simon / APP Team Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 3:13:40 PM(UTC)
 
Hi.

According the diagram this unit is not equipped with any electronic controls.Most likely the problem is within power supply harness or there more then one problem.
For example: bad lights (door switches) and bad defrost timer or cold control.
It's hard to believe in that, but things happen.
So the next time it'll happen - use the flat screw driver to slowly turn the defrost timer's shaft CW until it clics. If the fridge kicks on - replace the timer.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Liner parts for Roper RT18VKXJW00 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Post the results.

Simon.
user1027 Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 2:17:53 PM(UTC)
 
This unit just started flaking out in the past few days - the symptom is no fan, no compressor and no internal light. I tested the outlet - it has power. I jiggled the cord - no effect. When I started looking around for a new unit, it spontaneously comes back to life - compressor is cycling normally, fan works, and light works. It will fine for 3-24 hours then croak again for 1-3 hours, then come back to life.

I don't think it's the starter relay because when it's in failure state, the light doesn't come on either. I never hear any relay clicking, so for all I know, it may already come factory equipped with a solid-state relay. (Mfg date 2000).

I notice that the wires from the relay box on the side of the compressor and the AC power cord all lead to a nylon Molex connector, which is plugged into a sheet metal panel, obviously hiding more control parts (I guess the temperature controls inside)...

Any ideas?