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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
richappy Posted: Monday, January 31, 2011 1:19:52 PM(UTC)
 
You are welcome.
Jim_S Posted: Monday, January 31, 2011 9:11:44 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks for the input. I'll look up the article, although I'm hopeful the compressor is just fine. It's not making any odd noises and the freezer was 2.8 deg F this morning.

I should have specified that the measurement was for the entire refrigerator via plugging it into a Kill A Watt. While running, the entire refrigerator draws 153-180W. The power factor on the display oscillates between 0.97 and 0.98. With the bad relay, it was measuring 800+ watts when trying to start. When the overload kicked in, it dropped to 15 since the fans were still running.

Thanks again for the help.
richappy Posted: Monday, January 31, 2011 3:34:12 AM(UTC)
 
Your power calculation is higher than actual due to the compressor power factor.
I have measured between 5 and 10 ohms for a lot of the PTC's I see. In my article "replacing compressor start devices" I mentioned you can replace your PTC device with a WR07X10051 (AP3414961) and get a 33% increase in starting toque in case your compressor becomes hard starting.
Jim_S Posted: Sunday, January 30, 2011 6:30:50 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks for the reply. All 3 overload/relays are listed for use on the same replacement compressor with the same model capacitor so I assume those pinouts are the same. As you said, the refrigerator connection can be different, and for my ARB2217CB and the unit at the start of this thread, the recommended replacement is very different
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Overload, relay, part number: AP4013414
UserPostedImage
In addition to the relay listed for my model, I also bought the one for the ARB2517CB since it lists the same replacement compressor, capacitor and wiring harness as mine, but its recommended replacement relay is compatible with the original wiring harness. I actually installed and am testing that one since the klixon had a closer rating to the original than the listed replacement (with the bonus of not having to cut the wiring harness!) I found this document today to interpret the codes on tke Klixon:
http://www.sensata.com/download/4tm.pdf
The original had open/close temperatures of 105/61 deg C. The listed replacement was 125/61, but the drop-in replacement for the similar model refrigerator was 110/61. All had the same contact ratings.

I'm still looking for a similar document for interpreting the codes for the PTC part. Any ideas? When measured at room temperature, one was 6.3 ohms across the thermistor and the other was 6.6, but I have no idea what it goes up to while in use. Measured at the plug, the running draw of the refrigerator is between 153 and 180 Watts with the new part installed. The Tecumseh compressor listed under 200 Watts as normal. Are the PTC parts pretty standard, or is there much variation? Thanks.

Jim
richappy Posted: Sunday, January 30, 2011 11:28:36 AM(UTC)
 
All these start devices must provide an internal klixon and a PTC device to provide cold start current (5- 10 ohm cold) to the compressor start winding, usually the bottom left pin.They must be compatible with the compressor pin out. If not, the suppliers would be in serious trouble. Only difference is the refrigerator plug might be different. They all must provide the run capacitor pins to allow the capacitor to plug into.
Jim_S Posted: Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:42:24 AM(UTC)
 
It looks like there might be a 3rd make:
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Overload, relay, part number: AP4078361

UserPostedImage
Any idea what the difference might be between them? I have the same problem on an Amana ARB2217CB. The APP cross references show that ARB2217CB, ARB2517CB and ARS2661BB all use the same replacement compressor and capacitor, but each lists a different relay (two with the connector shown, but the one for me is the one with the connector that won't fit.) I could see different model to fit different wiring harnesses, but
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Overload/relay, part number: AP4077400UserPostedImage
only seems to differ from the one above by the color of the dot (and the one I ordered doesn't even have one.) Depending on the model, these are all used with the same compressor and capacitor. Any ideas on differences? Are they safe to interchange? My main concern is if they might have different points where teh overload kicks in, but they are listed for use on the same compressors. ...very confusing. Any advice would be much appreciated.

In another thread, the recommendation was to cut the harness and use the listed replacement, but I hate to do that if it's just a hiccup in the parts database.

Jim
libertyappl Posted: Saturday, January 10, 2009 6:51:28 AM(UTC)
 
russtuff Posted: Friday, January 9, 2009 7:49:55 AM(UTC)
 
which overload do you need? The one on the left side of the photo (with two connectors) or on the right (with one-piece connector)?
Thanks
Russ
libertyappl Posted: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:07:52 PM(UTC)
 
Glad you got it fixed!!

Nat
jdc0430 Posted: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:39:14 AM(UTC)
 
Yup! WORKED!!! THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!!! I have no idea why he would charge $160 for parts and labor, but this plug and play was easy :)

Jonathan