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When you close the door switch, the transmitter board goes from diagnostic mode to infrared mode ( you can't see it), makes it hard to troubleshoot. I would check the power to the transmitter board with the door switch closed. On your schematic, I think it is the black and white wires, and I think the other black wire comes from the door switch. This wire voltage goes away when you close the door switch. Either black wire wire may get reduced voltage when you close the door switch, or the flapper.
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Manual shut off is definatley open. I have ran that test. I actually did that multiple times before I ever thought of trying to widen the sight hole. I also took the flapper off as another test just to make sure that the edge of the flapper site hole was not getting in the way. The widening of the holes I am talking about are the plastic shroud site holes. When I was looking into the hole It looked like the little light could have been partially blocked by the hole. There was no adjustment that could be made on the board/shroud because of the positon of little slots on the board and pegs on the shroud. So, I shaved just a little bit off of the upper part of the site hole. I thought it might be blocking the line of site. To no avail. I have not altered the holes in the side of the cabinet. So positioning of the shroud should be the same as factory. I am wondering if I have a faulty part or a possibly the emitter is not receiving enough voltage to put out a strong enough beam? Even when I hade the emitter out of the shroud and could finally get the led to light up constantly, the slightest movement would make it go back to the blinking mode. I am not sure how strong of a signal the emitter puts out but I would think it would be stronger than what I am seeing. Please advise. Thanks.
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Run the following test and post the results. Check the ice maker manual shutoff slide and make sure that it is in the “ON” (open) position on the infrared receiver module. Close the flapper door on the left side so that the infrared beam has a clear path to the receiver board. Make sure that the door switch is not pushed in, and view the status LED. With the flapper door on the left side held closed, and the ice maker not in the 5 minute “harvest” mode, the status LED should be on steady. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRP25FNSS00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.comGene. P.S. Possible that the PC boards are misaligned now after you drilled bigger holes.
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I purchased the emitter and receiver from you and installed them last night. I am getting the same problem as before. It blinks 2 times with one second pause then reapeats. This is when I have it in the Plastic housing. I took the smaller board out of the housing and pointed it directly at the receiver or emitter, not sure which is which. It is the smaller of the two boards. I was able to get it to light up with a constant LED which indicates that it is working but it seems to be very picky about placement. No matter what I have tried with it in the housing it will not light up with the constant led as the instructions say it should. I have made the opening in the plastic hole a little larger with a small drill bit and tried to adjust the housing left, right, up or down. I am not sure how this transmitter works if it produces a beam of light? or something else. I am wondering if I just got a bad part or if there is something else wrong. Things aI have thought about is that it is a defective part and not producing a beam of light that is strong enough to be detected, possibly a bad wire or there may be some trick to adjusting the path. I do not see how I could do this without drilling new holes in the cabinet. Please advise.
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