|
|
I have the same issue, did replacing the board solve your problem?
|
|
|
Thanks richappy, i was afraid that was the case. I will just replace and hope that solves it.
|
|
|
There is no way to test the motherboard, GE technicians with special equipment can.
|
|
|
I did not find any posts from you on page 3 of that thread. But I know how to do a forced defrost. I have been doing it every few days to keep the ice buildup down until i find why the fridge is not defrosting on its own. I have ruled out most other pieces of the defrost system except for the adaptive defrost control on the main board. I am trying to find out how i can do that. one option is to just replace the board, but its $100 and i would like to be sure before i order one.
thanks
|
|
|
Go to the sticky above "GE refrigerator (GS* & PS* models) .... page 3, look for my response to manually force defrost.
|
|
|
Is it possible to test the adaptive defrost module on the control board?
I have ruled out thermostat, heater, thermistors etc. Last piece is the electronic control. Since this part is $100, I want to be sure I have the problem part located for sure.
thanks!
|
|
|
So I have ruled out the thermostat (i think). I performed the forced defrost this weekend to see if the thermostat was working. The fridge had been plugged in for a week now and I could see ice build up on the coils so I know that it has not been defrosting. I started the defrost and it soon started dripping and I could hear the sizzles as the water hit the element. The catch pan under the unit filled pretty good so I believe it was not defrosting all week.
So where do I go from here? It does not look like its the thermostat, and the heater check out ok as well. Perhaps the adaptive defrost on the control board? Like I said in my first post, the repair man replaced the control board and said it was reporting an error. Its possible that it was replaced with a damaged unit i suppose. Unfortunately, its past his 30 day warranty so I may have to get a new one.
Is there a way to test the control board?
Or could the thermostat be opening at too low of a temperature?
Thanks!
|
|
|
Temporarily short the wires from the defrost thermostat and force defrost per instructions. If it defrosts, this would confirm a bad defrost thermostat.
|
|
|
Thanks richappy
Last night after posting the follow up I opened the toe kick panel on the bottom of the fridge and found that the condensing coil was packed with cat hair and dust. It was disgusting! So I grabbed my coil brush and vacuum and went at it. I also took of the rear panel and cleaned the coils and fan. Things are much cleaner under there now.
Also while under there, I discovered a trouble shooting guide that was taped to the bottom of the unit. It has instructions on how to do a forced defrost and also various service tests for checking the defrost thermostat circuit, thermistors, condenser fan, evap fan, etc. I let the fridge/freezer cool over night and checked them all this morning and all systems were working fine. (Thermostat was closed)
So now this leaves me a little confused....Could the defrost problems be caused by the clogged condenser coils? Or perhaps the thermostat is opening too soon? I may just order the thermostat since its easy to get at in the back panel and its a cheap part.
I attached the trouble shooting guide and wiring diagram in case anyone comes across this post and is looking for it. my guess is it applies to any recent model kenmore bottom mount refrigerator.
|
|
|
Most probable failure is the defrost thermostat part #W10165425 You can check the thermister by clipping the wires. I think it is around 12 Kohm at room temperature.
|
