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It depends on the series number.
I believe that the series number is the first two digits in the serial number.
I assume that one diagram would be for the small burner and one for the large burner. That would be a huge help in diagnosing this.
Not sure that I quite understand the above.
For instance looking at the first two diagrams for Series 11.
The first one shows the physical wiring layout re: plugs and wiring routing.
The second one is the same wiring but simplified so that it is easier to follow.
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denman,
Thank you for the reply and also for the technical bulletin on this Maytag range. I am not an electrician, but do have capabilities to do some electrical troubleshooting and repair. Reading the schematics is a bit difficult, however. I see some schematic extracts and a PHYSICAL DIAGRAM of the switches, on pages 3 and 4 (5 diagrams are shown). Can you tell me which of these 5 diagrams I should be looking at to test the switches on this range? I assume that one diagram would be for the small burner and one for the large burner. That would be a huge help in diagnosing this. Otherwise, I will probably go with the assumption that the burner that was operating when the problem occurred has the bad controller.
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JRGwagon Here are your parts Parts for Maytag MER5765RAQ Range - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. It is the most likely culprit but the only way to tell for sure is to measure the switch contacts with a meter. Take a look at page 11 in the tech sheet. If I read the diagram correctly L1 to P ion the switches control the on light. Unplug the unit and either L1 or P at the switch you are testing. You have to do this because the switches from all infinite's are wired in parallel. Measure across the switch contacts. Should be infinite ohms. If 0 ohms then that is the bad switch. I would start with the one that was on when this fault first happened.
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I have the same problem as noted above, with a Maytag range model MER5765RAQ. The "on light" for the stove top burners does not turn off, but all of the burners currently operate properly. Based on the previous dialogue, this leads me to believe that one of the infinite burner controls is broken. How do I determine WHICH burner control is bad? I do know which burner was operated at the time the "on light" failed to turn off. Does that imply that that burner control is the culprit?
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Thanks for your patience with me Gene. When I click on those links both of them clearly state which element they are for. I'm not sure why I missed that before.
Your help is greatly appreciated.
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The part number for the switch used for the large element is AP4101874The part number for the switch used for the small element is AP4101865Gene.
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Thanks Gene,
I guess I was referring to identifying which is which in the parts list, not on the stove itself. Identifying which knob goes to which burner on the stove shouldn't be hard at all.
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It should be marked on the control panel, on the knobs or around the knobs something like "RF" or "Right Front". Also you should notice which burner gets hot when you turn the knob "on".
Gene.
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There are two burners on that side, one small and one large. Again, I'm assuming I'd have to replace them both since I don't really have a way to check and see if just one is bad.
I'm also assuming based on that I'd need one Switch-in and one Infinite, but that's by process of elimination. How do you know by the labeling which one is for which type of burner. Dual is self explanatory but the others have me puzzled.
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