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Jerry,
GREAT !!! Keep us informed with the repairs and results.
Appreciate it Thanks
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team  Drkwoods, The cooling fan thermostat, Part number: AP3853531
is the other assembly, under the cooktop. but that's not the concern, at this point. The thermal fuse you need to locate and check or replace is located on the back of the range Part number: AP3086326
You'll need to slide the range out of the cabinet, remove the rear cover panel to access and replace it. The Tech Data Information Sheet may help you out better.  In door ice system - component diagnostics.doc (167kb) downloaded 67 time(s).Thanks, Thanks for the heads Up about the "design flaw". I had the same thing occurr while cleaning. No power & door locked. I called Kitchenaid (whirlpool) explained the symptoms, model & serial# & saw on the web that it was a design flaw. They are repairing it free -parts & labor in 3 days! We shall see... If not I know what it is & how! Thx
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Originally Posted by: drkwoods After looking at the diagrams it appears I did replace the correct one up front (under control panel) left, but it did not fix the oven. It is still dead and now I suppose I should go after that cooling fan thermostat? Darkwoods, NO, At this point, you need to be in the back of the range, not the front. " 1. Unplug range or disconnect power. 2. Turn off gas supply to range. 3. Pull the range out of its mounting location so that you can access the rear of the unit. 4. Remove the rear panel from the unit. 5. Remove the two wire connectors from the oven TOD terminals. 6. Remove the two screws from the oven TOD and remove it".
The TOD, thermal fuse is located in the upper protion of the rear panel, slightly off center to the left.
Power from the line cord, passes through the fuse and into the transformer, from the transformer to the controls. It is a "one shot" fuse. The fuse circuit will open, in the even of an overheat situation, once the fuse is "open" there is no power to the controls, and the oven is inoperable.
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After looking at the diagrams it appears I did replace the correct one up front (under control panel) left, but it did not fix the oven. It is still dead and now I suppose I should go after that cooling fan thermostat?
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Ok, so let me get this straight Should I put the fuse I swapped out under the control panel back in and take the part I bought from here (AP3799085) out? Did I replace the wrong fuse? If I did, I'm going to put back the one I pulled out and then open up the back and replace the cooling fan thermostat? #AP3086326 ?
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Originally Posted by: drkwoods I have this exact problem. I purchased and replaced the "Thermal Fuse" in the front. I was somewhat confused as it appears there are two of these exact same appearing things under the control panel.. Only one had the red "dot" on it and so did the new part so I replaced that one.. I tested the one I removed and it was a closed circuit.. So I believe that this part was ok? and maybe I did not find the problem.. What is my next step? I had one heck of a time getting that front panel off and even bent the sides of the oven doing it? Where is the Cooling Fan thermostat? And is this the next likely thing to replace? Drkwoods, The cooling fan thermostat, Part number: AP3853531
is the other assembly, under the cooktop. but that's not the concern, at this point. The thermal fuse you need to locate and check or replace is located on the back of the range Part number: AP3086326
You'll need to slide the range out of the cabinet, remove the rear cover panel to access and replace it. The Tech Data Information Sheet may help you out better. In door ice system - component diagnostics.doc (167kb) downloaded 67 time(s).Thanks,
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Originally Posted by: jasontetzlaff I have a KitchenAid model KGRK806PSS that shut down during self cleaning. The door is now locked and the display is blank. I have unplugged it for 30 minutes to see if it would come back up and it will not. I am assuming there is either a fuse or a power supply that could be causing the problem. Any suggestions? I do not have a service manual. I repair equipment for a living so am really good with meters and electronics. I just need some direction on how to get the door open and to a system diagram so I can follow the power. I have this exact problem. I purchased and replaced the "Thermal Fuse" in the front. I was somewhat confused as it appears there are two of these exact same appearing things under the control panel.. Only one had the red "dot" on it and so did the new part so I replaced that one.. I tested the one I removed and it was a closed circuit.. So I believe that this part was ok? and maybe I did not find the problem.. What is my next step? I had one heck of a time getting that front panel off and even bent the sides of the oven doing it? Where is the Cooling Fan thermostat? And is this the next likely thing to replace?
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Originally Posted by: jasontetzlaff I got the door open. The fan thermostat behind the back panel was open. When I jumped the wires then I had power to the display and the door opened. The oven seemed to work with that thermostat bypasses. That now does not make sense since you said that the Thermostat should be open at room temperature. The thermal fuse behind the front panel was indeed open but as I said. The oven worked when bypassing the thermostat that was open.
I ordered a new thermostat and thermal fuse and will try those. Jason, Replacing both parts is the best way to go, anyway. Do you know if your parents had the range repaired before ? At one point there was a reccomendation to reposition(reverse) the thermal fuse and thermostat positions on the burner box to activate the cooling fan sooner, and lessen the posibility of the fuse openning. I'm wonderring if that's what occurred ? The great thing is, you've got your Mom and Dad up and running. Good Luck, :D :D :D
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I got the door open. The fan thermostat behind the back panel was open. When I jumped the wires then I had power to the display and the door opened. The oven seemed to work with that thermostat bypasses. That now does not make sense since you said that the Thermostat should be open at room temperature. The thermal fuse behind the front panel was indeed open but as I said. The oven worked when bypassing the thermostat that was open.
I ordered a new thermostat and thermal fuse and will try those.
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Originally Posted by: jasontetzlaff Thanks Joe. I will check into those two items. Do you know if the front panel can be removed with the door still locked? I was not there to notice if the fan was running or not. It is actually my parents oven and I told them I would look into fixing it for them.
Do you know what the resistance sgould be at room temperature for the fan Thermostat? I knew I forgot something; No, you can't get to the control panel, with the door locked(I forgot, DUH). My method,(most guys have thier own). I use a straightenned out metal coat hanger, Put a 2 inch hook at the end(so it looks like an upside down check mark,verizon logo). Insert the hooked end, from the left side of the door, in between the door liner and the cavity (at the top of the door ) until you hear or feel the hook slip over the latch arm mid way across the door. Push in lightly on the oven door handle, and pull the hanger back out slowly until it stops, then open the door. ( it may take a couple of tries, but you'll get it ). Everything should reset after the repair and you power the unit back up. The fan control thermostat should be an open circuit( no resistance ) at room temperature. The control thermal fuse should be a closed circuit(infinite resistance) at any time it's tested. Good Luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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