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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Thursday, May 10, 2012 3:37:32 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Ok, and where can I go to find out how to do that? also what is AP3959392[/COLOR]
They do not show an actual picture of it but looking at the drawing of it at the Sears site it looks like an interconnect board to me.


Here is a site with a of of manuals.
You will have to join it but it is free and a good resource for the appliance DIYer.
Unfortunately I cannot find a free service manual for this unit.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kenmoreprofails Posted: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 7:50:53 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post

One way to check it would be to unplug the unit and then measure L1 to CONV. on the relay board using a the most sensitive resistance setting on your meter. If it measures 0 ohms then you know that the contacts of the convection element relay are welded together and the relay board is the culprit.


Ok, and where can I go to find out how to do that? also what is AP3959392
denman Posted: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 4:50:29 AM(UTC)
 
Here are the parts Replacement parts for Kenmore 79079523600 by Kenmore Pro | AppliancePartsPros.com

The control board comes up as AP3960284
The relay board comes up as AP3960209

Also in with the relay board is a board AP3960185 but I have no idea what it is.

If you go to the Sears parts site they do have actual parts breakdowns but they keep these for themselves.

You could take a gamble, in which case I would replace the relay board as it is the most likely culprit.

One way to check it would be to unplug the unit and then measure L1 to CONV. on the relay board using a the most sensitive resistance setting on your meter. If it measures 0 ohms then you know that the contacts of the convection element relay are welded together and the relay board is the culprit.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kenmoreprofails Posted: Tuesday, May 8, 2012 6:29:37 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Yes it does sound like either the convection element relay itself or it's control electronics are shot.


Soooo... how would i fix this... what parts would i need to replace....
denman Posted: Thursday, May 3, 2012 2:15:06 AM(UTC)
 
Yes it does sound like either the convection element relay itself or it's control electronics are shot.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kenmoreprofails Posted: Wednesday, May 2, 2012 7:15:08 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post

Did the tech replace the oven sensor to fix the most recent problem re: always on?
he replaced this [IMG]UserPostedImage[/IMG]

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post

If yes I do not understand why because it sounds like it is your convection element which is on all the time. Do the other elements also come on?
nope just the one in the back behind the fan guard. The broiler one stays off unless it is set to broil.

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post

A bad sensor would have also effected bake ( non-convection) modes.
Did they check the resistance of the sensor?
??? it does the same thing no matter the setting i set it to. bake; roast; convection back.

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post

As you can see from the wiring diagram you have a control board which controls a relay board which controls the elements, so the problem could be in either board.

I would unplug the unit and the check the convection element relay (L1 to CONV.) on the relay board. If it is 0 ohms (using a low meter scale) then the relay contacts are welded together and the board needs replacing.

:confused:
denman Posted: Wednesday, May 2, 2012 4:34:32 AM(UTC)
 
Here is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318271935.pdf

Did the tech replace the oven sensor to fix the most recent problem re: always on?
If yes I do not understand why because it sounds like it is your convection element which is on all the time. Do the other elements also come on?
A bad sensor would have also effected bake ( non-convection) modes.
Did they check the resistance of the sensor?

As you can see from the wiring diagram you have a control board which controls a relay board which controls the elements, so the problem could be in either board.

I would unplug the unit and the check the convection element relay (L1 to CONV.) on the relay board. If it is 0 ohms (using a low meter scale) then the relay contacts are welded together and the board needs replacing.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kenmoreprofails Posted: Tuesday, May 1, 2012 5:28:38 PM(UTC)
 
Hi, I am having issues with my 5 and a half year old kenmore pro recently. I used to have an issue with it not getting up to temperature and running for hours with out hitting the temperature I set it to. Now when I set it (lets say at 200 Degrees F) it will always go over >400 Degrees F and the fan in the back will glow red from the coils surrounding it. I had a Technician over and he replaced the oven thermostat rod in the back left corner of the oven but this issues still persist. Any help and more information would be greatly appreciated.
:mad: