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Originally Posted by: isomc01  OK once the holidays were over I never got back to this and just used the lower overn. With thanksgiving on the way and needing to sell the house I want to give this another shot.
I think I need to pull it out and look at the wires on the back. Can you give me some clues to what I need to look for? You need to look for anything once you get the oven out of the cabinet. . Loose connections, warped, twisted, dis colored insulation on the wiring especially near the terminal ends. Also re check the wiring harness from the ERC / Clock to the Main PRB on the right side of the compartment (J2 connector). :) :) :)
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OK once the holidays were over I never got back to this and just used the lower overn. With thanksgiving on the way and needing to sell the house I want to give this another shot.
I think I need to pull it out and look at the wires on the back. Can you give me some clues to what I need to look for?
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Originally Posted by: isomc01 considering that the lower oven works fine all the time, would this mean that the third option is the probable cause? Isomc, Correct, check the L1 and L2 input wires at the relay board, and see if you loose voltage when the relay closes. Then check the L1 and L2 wires out to the elements at the relay board. I take for granted , you did disconnect all the wire harnesses between the relay board and the ERC/Clock,and check for proper circuits and position on the pin connector(s) on the boards. :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
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considering that the lower oven works fine all the time, would this mean that the third option is the probable cause?
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Originally Posted by: isomc01 At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires.
What would be the cause or fix for this? Is it the Power Relay Board? Should I put the old one back in and see what happens? No, The loss of voltage on a power line/leg could be due to: A weak wire or connection on the wiring in the wall, back to the breaker box. A weak or loose connection of the wiring on the terminal block, from the wall conduit wiring/power cord. A loose,weak L1 or L2 wire from the terminal block to the relay board. :) :) :)
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At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires.
What would be the cause or fix for this? Is it the Power Relay Board? Should I put the old one back in and see what happens?
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Originally Posted by: isomc01 Again, thanks for your support on this. I double checked all the connections and they seem OK. I also checked for 240 on the relay board which read correctly.
I think I am going to go back through all your posts and make a new check list and go over it from beginning to end again.
Any other thoughts are always appreciated. Isomc, Your idea, going back through the posts, is better than mine. (you may want to get an extra meter, so you can test both hot legs at the same time). At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires. In the mean time, I'll review the posts as well, and see if I missed something, or can get a better idea. :) :) :)
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Again, thanks for your support on this. I double checked all the connections and they seem OK. I also checked for 240 on the relay board which read correctly.
I think I am going to go back through all your posts and make a new check list and go over it from beginning to end again.
Any other thoughts are always appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: isomc01 OK, thanks for the great reply. I have replaced both the relay board and the ERC.
Are you saying then that in the normal off situation L1 is still going to the element and that is why i am reading 120V? If I pull the baking element out, while hte unit is plugged in and do not touch my controls what voltage should I read across the two connections on my baking element?
Also, it was very difficult to pull the element out at all. I could just barely get the connections to come through the wall. Is this normal?
When you say wire harness connections can you explain more of what you mean? Just all connections or is this something specific. Correct, as long as the breakers are on, you will have 120 VAC at the elements. Wether you make a selection or not. And yes, there is not much slack in the wires to the elements, it can be pretty tight,( I used to use clips to hold the wires out and away from the cavity, to do this test). If you pull the element out and check across the two terminals of the element, you will probably have a 0 VAC reading(same power source). If you check each terminal to chassis ground you will have 120 VAC on each. You have 3 connectors on the back of the ERC, J1,J2 and the touchpad ribbon from the control panel. You have the same connections on the relay board. I have, occasionally found that the previous servicer, did not properly align the connectors, to the pin connector on the ERC,or relay board, causing all kinds of false readings, and improper programming. At this point, I'm running out of things to check, and need to return and re check everything. The only check we havent made is 240 VAC at the relay board, with power applied That would be L1(black on the front upper part of the relay board and L2(double red) located at the back lower portion of the relay board, with power supplied to the wall oven. :confused: :confused: :confused:
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OK, thanks for the great reply. I have replaced both the relay board and the ERC.
Are you saying then that in the normal off situation L1 is still going to the element and that is why i am reading 120V? If I pull the baking element out, while hte unit is plugged in and do not touch my controls what voltage should I read across the two connections on my baking element?
Also, it was very difficult to pull the element out at all. I could just barely get the connections to come through the wall. Is this normal?
When you say wire harness connections can you explain more of what you mean? Just all connections or is this something specific.
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