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How do I restore power to the clock assembly/control panel?
I would check the power first make sure you have 120 volts from L1 (Black) to Neutral (White) and from L2 (Red) to Neutral
Looks like if the hi-limit opens on this unit it will also kill power to the board so check that first. It uses the L1 side, it also runs the oven light.
Or does the fact that there is no display mean that it is ruined?
If you can confirm that it is getting power and still does not light up then it is toast.
Thanks for your patience and info!
You are welcome. Definitely a bad time of the year for oven problems.
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Ok...one last question. Apparently when I installed the new bake element, it was touching the body of the oven where it shouldn't be. This created a short (which did not trip the breaker in the house). This in turn affected the clock assembly/control panel (possibly ruining it). So, here's my question: I have taken out the bake element therefore eliminating the short circuit. How do I restore power to the clock assembly/control panel? Or does the fact that there is no display mean that it is ruined? I am not going to purchase a new one because it is a $150 part and I would rather buy a new oven. Thanks for your patience and info!
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I was referring to the house breaker
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Where is the breaker? Is that different than the high limit switch?
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Could you give me a guess as to what happened to my stove?
Without being there it would just be a shot in the dark.
How did the bake element get fused to the body of the oven?
Again I cannot say.
The bare wire section of the element cannot touch any part of the stove case/frame. But the insulated/calrod part of the element can, as you can see this is where it has the mounts to attach it to the rear oven wall.
As a way of explanation:
The unit gets power from two 120 volt supplies with a common Neutral which is connected to the frame of the oven..
One of these powers your light and control board as well as half the voltage for the element.
These supplies are 180 degrees out of phase. In other words when one is at positive 120 volts the other is at negative 120 volts. This gives you the 240 volts required by the heating element. Your current flows through the element from the -120 to the +120.
So if either end of the bare element touches the frame you have a dead short for one side of the electricity and it will arc/spark and normally trip the breaker.
I hope the above helps.
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Could you give me a guess as to what happened to my stove? How did the bake element get fused to the body of the oven? I really have no experience in electrical repairs so I don't feel at all equipped to tackle this problem. Did I do something wrong when I replaced the bake element...should it not have been touching the body of the stove?
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Would there be some sort of circuit breaker or hi-limit switch that would protect the electronics from frying?
Your unit does have a hi-limit (Item 9 in Section 1) in the heater circuit.
Unfortunately electronic parts blow much faster than fuses do so it does not give any real protection.
The high limit is usually mounted on the outside of the top or back of the oven. It will kill power to both elements.
Repair the oven shorting problem, check that the hi-limit is 0 ohms and give it a try. I would also check the power to the unit L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. L1 side is required to power the board.
Who knows you may get lucky.
Note that the parts for this unit includes a wiring diagram.
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Ok...I just discovered that one of the terminals of the bake element is actually now fused to the edge of the hole in the back of the stove.
Would there be some sort of circuit breaker or hi-limit switch that would protect the electronics from frying?
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See Denman's post above: Quote:If the bake element is heating but not getting red hot it could be that it is shorted to the frame and getting 120 volts not the full 240 it normally receives.
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