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You'll need to uninstall the unit (if it's installed overhead) and remove the cover. This will expose the switch/door relationship. The alignment I was referring to is the alignment between the door latch and the switch plate. Both of the switches (primary and interlock) must be activated simultaneously. To check the operation of the switches, just do a continuity check on them. [COLOR="Red"]Be sure the unit is unplugged, and discharge the High Voltage capacitor, before putting your hands in the unit. (The capacitor can be discharged by shorting between the two terminals with a screwdriver, or similar tool [be prepared to hear a loud pop or see a large spark as you do this]).[/COLOR]
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Thank you. I believe you are correct. If I open the door and plug the unit in it comes on (with a internal fan running that I have never heard before that won't stop). As soon as I close the door the breaker in the electrical panel trips. Done this 3 times with same result. Is there a way to diagnose the problem as switch failure or alignment? If alignment (my doors seems to be square to all edges) is there a template or some way to fix it? If switches, can they just be bought from APP and easily installed at home? Lastly, is that fan running because I fried something? Sorry for all of the questions. I truly appreciate your help so far.
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A couple weeks ago my wife set the temp for the convection bake and upon hitting start she heard a soft pop and the unit went dead. I reset the breaker and plugged in the unit and it was still dead. I took off the cover and replaced the 20 AMP fuse and the microwave worked until last night. The kitchen timer was running and there was food in it that had been microwaved 10 min earlier. Upon removing the food the door was shut and simultaneously the soft pop occurred and the unit went dead again. I reset the breaker and plugged in the unit and there was an immediate pop and the breaker was tripped. I repeated the process and the breaker tripped again upon plugging in the unit. Question: Is it possible the door switch is doing this (it doesn't make sense that the breaker would trip just upon plugging it back in if this is the case)? Or, is it something else such as a problem with the high voltage capacitor? Can these repairs be made by me?
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