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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Thursday, April 22, 2010 4:31:43 AM(UTC)
 
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
davewild Posted: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 11:05:32 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks, I did find that the heating coil was touching the case. I fixed that now and now have replaced the cut off and themal fuse. Just one more queston. The hi-limit thermostat from the AP3094244 kit doesn't look like the AP3131941 in that there is an extension on the AP3094244 which connects to the heating coil in addition to two prongs for orange and red wire. The hi-limit thermostat from the AP3094244 kit doesn't have this extension, only two prongs so how do I connect it (replace AP3131941 with it)?
denman Posted: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 3:43:00 AM(UTC)
 
Here is the parts breakdown. I could not find a P0 but did find a PQ0 which follows.
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEC5000PQ0 29" Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528187.pdf

[COLOR="Blue"]What is the difference between the High Limit thermostat 250 that you get in the Kit AP3094244 and the Dryer high limit thermostat AP3131941. I know they are physically different but can't find out where the High Limit thermostat 250 from the kit goes.[/COLOR]
They are the same.
AP3094244 is the hi-limit and the thermal fuse (Item 6 in Section 3)
AP3131941 is just the hi-limit (Item 15 in Section 3)
They are on the heater assembly and kill/regulate power to the heater.
The other thermal fuse (Item 18 in Section 3) in the unit is on the blower assembly. It kills power yo the motor so the unit seems totally dead.

The reasoning behind including it with the thermal fuse is that the hi-limit should have regulated the temperature at 250 degrees but did not do this as the unit blew the fuse at approximately 310 degrees. Therefore the hi-limit did not open (contacts welded together) and so also needs replacing.

[COLOR="SeaGreen"]Note: That this is not always true, see below.[/COLOR]
Unplug the unit and check the thermal fuse with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it.

If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble. I beleive richappy (another regular poster on this forum) has done a study on thermostats and found a wide variation of actual trip point and what is specified.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
davewild Posted: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 7:03:18 PM(UTC)
 
What is the difference between the High Limit thermostat 250 that you get in the Kit AP3094244 and the Dryer high limit thermostat AP3131941. I know they are physically different but can't find out where the High Limit thermostat 250 from the kit goes.