This just happened to me and it was just the switch in the door I forgot to connect. Now it's working!

Actually there are 2 different thermal fuses, the one on your picture is placed near the heater and is meant to cut power to the heater in case it overheats as a safety feature.

Another one is placed after the blower. This video will show it better that I can explain: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leM7XTm7oz8

Based on your short video, I don't think it's the problem. The dryer sounds like it's trying to start, but the motor doesn't have enough torque so it promptly overheats and stop.

This could be because the belt is not properly on the pulley and has stuck, or there's something preventing the drum from turning, or the motor bearings have seized, or there's an obstruction in the blower wheel.

Unfortunately for these models, if you remove the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley, there's a safety switch that will prevent the motor from starting, so you can't check motor by itself.

However, with the front of the unit removed, you can access the blower wheel and turn this one by hand, both with and without the drum belt. It should be rather easy to turn in both situations.

If easy to turn with the belt removed, check if the drum is easy to turn by hand, if yes, it's likely the belt wasn't installed properly. If drum is hard to turn, one of the support rollers might have seized or just isn't placed properly.

If motor is hard to turn even without the drum and there's nothing in the blower wheel, there might be something in the motor blocking it.

Most samsung dryers have a thermal fuse at the outlet.

Looks like a small metal cap placed after the blower.

With a shorted element and tons of lint, it might have overheated and this fuse prevents the motor from running.

Resistance of the fuse should be about 0 Ohms if it's good.

Hi I recently replaced the heating element assembly in my dv419aeu/xaa. I replaced it after testing the old one and it was shorted. Now with the new element or even swapping the old one back in the drum will no longer spin but the cycle program runs and it clicks. I'm not sure if it's the heating element turning on but I definitely smell something the longer it runs and it doesn't seem to be because of wiring. I double checked the wiring for the element and it is good. The belt appears to be on the tensioner. The bottom of the machine was covered in tons of lint and the vent was badly clogged, not sure if all the lint wasn't good for the parts.