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Yes, the ohms reading you quote is the correct spec, and I guess "open" for your meter does not mean open the way we thought.
I still think the timer is your problem. If the timer motor were open in the sense of no continuity then the timer motor was the problem with your timer. If the timer ran in cool down mode then the problem may have been in your moisture sensor. However, since your timer did not run in cool down mode and does not run in timed mode then the most likely situation is the Timer Switch is not operating correctly to send power to the timer motor.
I understand you are not able to replace the timer right away, and I assume you will operate your dryer in timed mode and manually shut it off when your clothes are dry. If you do this, please set up a separate timer or two that will buzz to remind you to shut off the dryer. Please do not leave your dryer operating if you leave home.,
While the dryer does have safety mechanisms, given the history of your machine you should not rely entirely upon them.
Good luck and when you do replace the timer let us know if that was the problem.
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I found my dryer schmatic shows 1800-2900 ohm for the timer motor.
Doesn't the 2337 ohm I measured fall in this range satisfactorily?
Although I stated my meter read "open", I check the manual this morning and it states: "Open = circuit is not shorted and is greater than about 50 ohms".
This morning I did find an enlarged schematic of the timer wires and confirmed I do have it wired back together properly.
Does this indicate I might try to look somewhere else, or still most likely just replace the timer? (I can't afford to right now anyway).
Thanks,
Kenmoron
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Ok, based on what you have said, and assuming the timer motor is open I think it is highly likely you need to replace your timer. Can't guarantee that is right, though.
You can get the part from this site, but you need to put 110 in front of your model number. (check and see that 110. is before your model number on your dryer.)
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
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Thanks:
On "Wrinkle-Guard" (at end of the cycle) the timer still did not move.
I had to buy a new meter for this repair and am trying to learn to use it.
With dryer unplugged, I disconnected the leads on the timer motor and measured across them on the ohms setting - 2.337 "K ohm".
Meter also says circuit is "open".
Hope this helps.....I appreciate your help.
If I didn't test the motor correctly, please advise what to do.
Kenmoron
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Ok, this is a difficult problem because I do not want to suggest an expensive repair like the timer and then have that not be the problem. It is probably the timer, but lets do a few more checks.
1. Turn on the dryer and place the timer in cool down area (last 10 minutes) and see if the timer advances.
2. With machine unplugged, check timer motor for continuity.
Post the results and let's see what that tells us.
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Everything seems back to normal operation as far as I can tell, except the dryer doesn't stop.....and the timer does not advance in either timed or auto-dry mode.
Thanks for your help.
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Can you tell us the exact operating condition of the machine at this point.
It sounds like you are saying that in auto or timed dry it works as it should but the timer does not advance. Is this correct, or is it in some other conditon?
Thanks
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I am a Kenmoron because I put hiking shoes in the dryer..:mad:
It ran briefly, then after some loud pounding went silent.
I opened it up and found the belt broken, so replaced the belt.
Still didn't run. Opened again and went through all electrical connections and cleaned....I did them one at a time so I don't think I mixed any up...but it's not impossible.
Yeah, dryer runs, heats, dries clothes. Left the dryer on auto dry when I went to bed....and it's still runnning this morning!
Timer does not advance on auto or timed dry.
I have cleaned all lint out of machine I can find.
Cleaned all electrical connections a second time, including moisture sensor terminals.
The Thermo Cut-Off (Hi-Limit Thermo) shows some blackening on one of the plastic terminal shrouds.
It reads 0 ohms across it with one conductor removed.
Also 0 ohms across the two main timer leads, and the lower thermo.
I did twirll the timer dial quite a bit when I was trying to get it to work at one point....maybe I broke it?
Thanks for any advice. I need to save the dryer and fix it myself.
Kenmoron
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