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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
JDT73 Posted: Sunday, October 29, 2017 7:29:02 AM(UTC)
 
So, I have cleaned out the housing (wasn't that bad) and checked for continuity on all thermostats and the thermal fuse (all were good). At this point I'm at a loss as to what could be wrong.

Any further help would be greatly appreciated.
JDT73 Posted: Saturday, October 28, 2017 6:35:57 PM(UTC)
 
I have not yet checked the bottom of the housing, hadn't considered it since I have good air flow. Wife did say she was able to get one load dried, in one cycle, today while I was at work. But the second load didn't dry at all.

So, tomorrow I'm going to check the thermostats for continuity and check the housing for blockage.
ThatGuy Posted: Saturday, October 28, 2017 4:42:47 PM(UTC)
 
The Hi Limit Thermostat is to protect the element from burning out.

The cycling thermostat controls the temperature of the clothes, as measured on the exhaust going out the vent. On high heat the air coming out should be around 165 degrees F.

The thermal fuse is one time only. it blows out and the dryer won't be doing much of anything.

Have you checked at the bottom of the filter housing? I've seen them be pretty much blocked off with lint and other things.
JDT73 Posted: Saturday, October 28, 2017 1:36:37 PM(UTC)
 
The vent hose is not plastic or mylar. There is good air flow outside at the end of the vent, as much air flow as at the back of the dryer.

According to the parts site associated with these forums, there are two thermostats for my dryer.

The first is called a Hi Limit Thermostat, part Whirlpool WP3977767 Hi-Limit Thermostat - AppliancePartsPros.com.

The second is a Dryer Cycling Thermostat, part Whirlpool WP3387134 Dryer Cycling Thermostat - AppliancePartsPros.com. This is the one you mention.

What is the difference in the two thermostats and how can I be certain it's one and not the other or the thermal fuse?
ThatGuy Posted: Friday, October 27, 2017 8:39:25 PM(UTC)
 
Drying is a combination of heat and airflow. Your dryer has a single element and it either heats or doesn't You have one thermostat to control the clothing temperature. This part.
Whirlpool WP3387134 Dryer Cycling Thermostat - AppliancePartsPros.com

Do you have flexible vent behind the dryer? Plastic or Mylar? It might be folding almost flat and restricting the airflow. If its too long it can get all kinds of bends and 90 degree turns in it. Each one adding more resistance to the airflow.

If you look in the instillation manual you will see that they only recommend flexible metal or solid metal vent. Always 4 inch and they will tell you the maximum length and max number of elbows possible.
JDT73 Posted: Friday, October 27, 2017 6:41:15 PM(UTC)
 
My dryer hasn't been working right for a little while. I have cleaned the vent pipe from the wall to the outside and I have replaced the heating element. At this point, the dryer heats up (I turn it on then open the door after about 5 minutes and it is hot inside) but it doesn't dry in a normal run time.

Searches lead me to think it's one of the thermostats or the thermal fuse. I know I need to run a continuity test on those parts to see if one is bad. Bad reading the parts sheets I'm seeing only two thermostats. Can someone tell me if this is correct? Or if the issue is possibly even something other than the thermostats or thermal fuse.

Thanks in advance,

John