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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
captkos Posted: Thursday, September 29, 2016 5:07:25 PM(UTC)
 
Brobriffin,

Thank you for your time. I will make this long story short.. ;-) Ok, so ultimately I had a bad motor AND a bad cycling thermostat. I just got done replacing all the sensors ( at which point I put a new BAD cycling thermostat into the dryer.)

Since you were gracious enough to answer my questions, I will explain what I did to find the short (least I can do and I like closure.. ;-) ) My previous post explains all of the troubleshooting that I did with the exception of replacing the cycling thermostat (which went in uneventfully.)

The first picture I am showing (overall.jpg) shows the white wire with the red stripe in its path across the back to the multi-wire splice intersection.

The second picture (cluster.jpg) shows where I traced the various wires too.. Full disclosure, I did this about 3 days ago and I am colorblind so it is POSSIBLE I didn't get everything labelled correctly, but rest assured wires from that bundle DID go to the various locations listed. The question mark shown was one that I just completely forgot where it went.

After I got the Cycling thermostat out, I shook it and the inside was rattling. I am assuming something on the inside broke loose and was ground to the outside case.

As of right this second, my dryer is fully functional and working better then it has in ten years. Thank you for your assistance. How can I repay you?
brobriffin Posted: Tuesday, September 27, 2016 9:10:38 AM(UTC)
 
Interesting to say the least.
However those purplish wires should not be associated with the neutral wire from the motor. Those wires only operate small heating elements inside the cycling thermostat to have it click off at a lower temp when the low temp setting is selected. So if they are causing the short then I would find out where they are contacting the white red wire.
captkos Posted: Saturday, September 24, 2016 2:52:16 PM(UTC)
 
Ok, I took your advice and I hooked my meter to the side of the switch with the white wire with the red strip and to ground. It read 2.0 ohms (at the worst). So I gently started cutting the wire ties and tape holding the wires together to trace the wht-red-strp wire through the machine to the motor. I found at a certain point the wire intersects with a bunch of other wires of various colors. I handled all the wires gently bending them to see if I could find a bend or cut. Could not. So I start taking them off one by one to see if the gnd condition would change or go away. Finally I get to the wire that goes down the Cycling Thermostat. I removed the [purplish] wire from one side of the thermostat and the ground condition went away. I reinstalled it and remove the other side of the wire coming back out and the condition remained. So I decided the condition was contained to this thermostat. If I leave the wires hooked up and remove the device, the ground condition goes away again. So I am figuring the device is causing the problem. I am going replace it.

Pic 1 (Installed) is the device installed with the multi-meter on gnd and white-red stripe wire coming off of the start button.

Pic 2 (Removed) is the device removed with the multi-meter on gnd and white-red stripe wire coming off the start button.

Pic 3 (Part No) is just a clear picture of the part and part number.

So at this point I am thinking something is broken in the thermostat and grounding to the other case which grounds to the vent when it is installed. I am thinking I could make a Teflon spacer or I could just replace the unit. Thoughts? I think I am almost done fixing this thing.. ;)
brobriffin Posted: Saturday, September 24, 2016 9:07:03 AM(UTC)
 
As I suspected based on the wiring diagram apparently the neutral wire coming from the motor to the start switch is grounded out somewhere.
Check the wire coming from 5 on the motor should be white with a red stripe. Follow it up to the start switch. It must be grounding against metal.
captkos Posted: Friday, September 23, 2016 2:34:43 PM(UTC)
 
Yep, I try to keep all of my docs in electronic format.. just in case. I have attached the .pdf version of the schematic. Mine is the electric on the top. I need to verify the docs that came with the motor, just to make sure there were not any OEM/ compatibility changes for the motor I installed.
brobriffin Posted: Friday, September 23, 2016 4:26:29 AM(UTC)
 
Do you still have the wiring chart for your machine? It was located inside the control head and likely would have been taped down.
If so can you either scan it or take a picture of it and post it back here.
I think you may have a neutral line from the motor grounding out somewhere before the start button or door switch. I need to see the wiring diagram to be sure.
captkos Posted: Wednesday, September 21, 2016 6:51:12 PM(UTC)
 
Well, yes. The motor was bad. I changed the motor out and put the entire thing back together.. WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!! sorta... ;-)

Everything works, but for some reason when I move the dial on to set the time, the dryer kicks on without me hitting the start button.

I unplugged the start button and tested it. It is good, momentary, etc.

When I open the door on the front the dryer does not stop. The door switch works fine. I can push it in and out and see the light in the dryer turn on and off, but the dryer does not stop.

I assume the motor wiring harness is keyed and can be only plugged in one way, correct? Any ideas?

thanks in advance.
brobriffin Posted: Wednesday, September 21, 2016 1:44:59 PM(UTC)
 
Yes you are correct! The wire should go from pin 4 to the belt switch then back to the open terminal on the overload protector. With units the have no belt switch a wire would simply run from pin 4 to the right side of the overload protector.
captkos Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 8:32:52 PM(UTC)
 
I had to take the wire from the motor to the belt tension switch off of the old motor and put it on the new motor. Where does it go? I think I know where one side goes but I am not sure about the other. Matter of fact, I may removed it previously when I was jumping out the tension switch and put it back in the wrong place. That could have been my whole problem this time, so I am double checking.
brobriffin Posted: Saturday, September 17, 2016 6:35:14 PM(UTC)
 
If there are no visible signs of abraded wires touching metal near the motor, then I suspect your motor and or the centrifugal switch are the culprit.
When the timer is turned to any on position power is being sent to pin #2 on the motor terminal (the black wire) but should not be conducting a circuit until the centrifugal switch is activated by the running motor. To further understand this watch the video in this link. Bill is demonstrating what happens inside that switch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaaqRXQERVc