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Ok, I found the root of the problem. When the heating element was removed from the dryer, it was not grounded. However, when it was installed in the dryer, the coil was making contact with the heat chute (for lack of a better term). I could see an arc spot on the heat chute, and upon closer examination of the heating element I noticed it was damaged. The coils were intact but the metal which holds the coils looked burned and a little deformed. With this short happening, I suspect my thermal fuse on the exhaust side was tripped and the jumper wire between the heating element and the heating element thermal cut off was damaged.
Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it!
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With the red wire unplugged from the heating element, I still get heat. From what you've said, this means the heating element is grounded. Is there a way to double check this with my multimeter? I assume this means replacing the heating element?
Thanks again for your help!
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Well, the only way the heat element can come on without the motor running is if the element is grounded, the red wire going from the element to the motor connector is grounded or the motor heat switch is stuck closed. Unplug the dryer and disconnect the red wire from the heat element terminal. Make sure the unplugged wire terminal isn't touching anything, plug the dryer back in and do the timer test again. If it heats, the element must be grounding. If not, unplug dryer again, reattach wire and unplug motor connector. Plug dryer back in and try test again. I'm cautioning to unplug the dryer because if the motor switch is stuck closed, the red wire feed to the heat element will have 120vac on it regardless of timer position.
Eric
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Eric,
Thanks for the quick response. I just checked what you suggested. The heat is in fact coming on when the time is moved to the timed dry position. The timer does not appear to be turning, so following your advice I should look to see if the heating element is grounded and the thermal fuse is blown, correct?
Thanks again!
P.S. The thermal fuse on the outlet side (past the lint screen) is blown. I also checked for a grounded heating element by testing for continuity between the coil terminals and the case. No continuity. This is correct, yes? I also noticed the jumper wire between the thermostat and the heating element is damaged. I will be replacing this part. Anything else to check?
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That is the oddest set of symptoms I've ever heard for a dryer. Are you sure the heat is not coming on when you just turn the timer on? The only thing the start button does is turn the motor on. The heat should not come on unless the motor is running. I think you may have a grounded heat element and blown thermal fuse. Try just turning the timer on to normal heat cycle and see if the heat comes on without pressing the start switch. With timer set to timed dry cycle and motor not running, if timer advances on it's own, the motor is faulty.
Eric
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Hello all,
About a week ago, I noticed when I hit the start button on my dryer that nothing happened. After some fiddling about, I noticed that the heating elements were turning on. I figured this was a pretty cut and dry case of a bad motor, however going through the troubleshooting guides for a bad motor, nothing fit the bill. The motor turns freely and appears to be in good condition. Then I noticed something odd... Even with the door open (even with the door switch unplugged!), I am still able to push the start button and the heating elements turn on. This seems very odd to me.
I've checked continuity on the door switch which has three terminals. When the door is shut, terminals 1 and 3 have continuity. Terminal 2 does not have continuity. I checked the start button, and everything checks there.
Does anyone have some advice for me? Could it be something with the door switch, or something else?
Thank you for your time!
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