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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Tuesday, July 1, 2014 1:51:54 AM(UTC)
 
You are welcome.

Glad to hear that you haveit up and running again.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
AppUser1 Posted: Monday, June 30, 2014 3:45:48 PM(UTC)
 
Follow up;
I was able to obtain a shop vac with 7' x 2.5" hose. I disconnected the semi-rigid duct from pvc pipe going down into the floor, and then placed the shop vac hose down through the floor. I turned it on as I sent it down through the pipe. When I had finished, there were clumps of damp lint in the vacuum canister. It appears that this had clogged the 90 bend in the pvc pipe. I guess I was unable to remove all the clog with the previous methods I had tried.
I now turned the dryer on and there is air flowing through to the outside vent!
I wanted to follow up and thank you again for taking the time to assist me with this issue. I do appreciate all your assistance.
denman Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 12:57:09 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="Blue"]Did you mean the blower housing tube located in rear behind rear dryer panel?[/COLOR]
You have air flow with the vent off the dryer, so next is to reattach the vent and then disconnect it where it goes through the floor.
If OK then reattach it and disconnect it at the next fitting in the basement.
Ans so on working yoyr way along the vent system till tou find the plug/problem.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
AppUser1 Posted: Monday, June 23, 2014 1:21:06 PM(UTC)
 
Thank you again for your followup.
I believe there may be a 90 bend after duct goes into basement. I did clean out the entire run however, may be possible there me be obstruction at the 90 that wasn't completely removed. I thought that may be the cause of nor air to outside vent as well. Will do another through cleaning and follow up.
Also, were you referring to in the following statement "I would disconnect it at the floor and see if there is still good air flow". Did you mean the blower housing tube located in rear behind rear dryer panel?
denman Posted: Monday, June 23, 2014 1:20:34 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="Blue"]Would this confirm blower wheel is operating correctly?[/COLOR]
Yes

[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible that the blower housing tube in rear (shown in video) may be clogged?[/COLOR]
Could be.
I would disconnect it at the floor and see if there is still good air flow.
If not then remove the vent pipe and check it.
If there is good air flow then the plug is between the floor and the outside vent.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
AppUser1 Posted: Sunday, June 22, 2014 2:10:51 PM(UTC)
 
denman, duct from back of dryer to floor is 4" semi-rigid duct (my apologies, I believe I may have referred to it as rigid duct).
Here is photo of duct coming from rear of dryer. I have a swivel elbow connected to rear of dryer and semi-rigid duct is connected to that;
UserPostedImage

Here is photo showing duct going to floor;
UserPostedImage

Space is not an issue when dryer is moved back some. Duct isn't crushed however, does form "U".

I removed the semi-rigid duct from back of dryer while dryer was on, and confirm lot's of hot air coming from rear of dryer. Would this confirm blower wheel is operating correctly?
Is it possible that the blower housing tube in rear (shown in video) may be clogged?
denman Posted: Sunday, June 22, 2014 1:30:12 PM(UTC)
 
From your post it sounds like sheet metal ducting.
You should be able to cut it with a pair of tin snips.
Also a Dremel or angle grinder will work but then you have sparks flying all over.

If the duct to the outside and the dryer duct are inline or close to being in line then I would get some of the expandable foil (not plastic) duct.
Cut enough of it when expanded so that the dryer can be pulled forward enough for you to tighten/loosen at least one of the pipe clamps.
Then tighten up both clamps and then just push the dryer back into place.
Then check with a flashlight to be sure that the expandable duct is still OK.

I do not know if the above will work for you as you have to have room on one side of the dryer so you can reach in and get at the clamps.

I had a problem at my daughters that may be similar to yours.
They had a washer and dryer side by side in a closet with the vent going out the floor and it was not lined up with the dryer vent.
You just could not get in at it so every time the dryer was pushed back the vent hose got squashed or came loose. Was a real pain.
I used rigid duct to come out the back and then straight up above the dryers console. I had to squish the vertical pipe a little so they could close the closet doors but only a little. I sealed this with the good foil type duct tape and attached it to the back of the dryer. Then I put in an elbow and some more duct so I could got out the wall instead of the floor and installed e new exterior vent. I do not know if this will work for you but it did the job at her place.

if front to back clearance is an issue you can get rectangular vent that is only a couple inches this but has the same or more cross sectional area of a 3 inch round vent.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
AppUser1 Posted: Sunday, June 22, 2014 12:48:44 PM(UTC)
 
denman, thank you for your follow up and providing the additional information and tutorial. It's very much appreciated.
With regard to rigid duct going from rear of dryer to exhaust pipe to floor (to outside), can that be cut to make a smoother transition from rear of dryer to floor, and eliminating the "U" from rigid duct? What do you suggest I use to cut duct with (if cutting it won't be an issue)?
Is there a way to confirm blower wheel is defective without opening the dryer?
Again, thank you for taking the time to follow up and assist. It's very much appreciated!
denman Posted: Friday, June 20, 2014 1:46:16 AM(UTC)
 
Item 10 in Section 03
This is in the parts, see below
Part number: AP2997251
Part number: AP2997251


[COLOR="Blue"]should I "crush" rigid duct down some?[/COLOR]
Do not crush the vent pipe.
The U in the vent pipe may be causing probems but it may be the only pratical way to hook the unit up.
it would be better to go directly out the back to the vent but that may not be possible.

[COLOR="Blue"]Is metal or plastic better for this situation? Is metal damper to heavy for exhausted air to operate correctly?[/COLOR]
I cannot say without actually being there to check the vent cover.
You will have to check how it opens and the airflow once the dryer is hooked up.

Sorry for the delay on getting back to you but I had to go to the cabin for a few days.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
AppUser1 Posted: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 12:57:31 AM(UTC)
 
denman,
Thank you for taking the time to reply and post the additional information and attachment, I appreciate it! where do I locate blower wheel Item 10 in Section 03 once attachment is downloaded?
The drum does rotate and function normal. While I was cleaning out the duct work, I had wanted to run the dryer without having the ductwork attached but forgot! Will do this and post follow up (thank you for the idea about using pantyhouse, very much appreciated).
With regard to rigid duct that connects back of dryer to pipe that exhausts dryer to the outside. The rigid duct has a "U" shape that's about 3 ft. (goes up from back of dryer and down into floor/exhaust pipe). Is that acceptable or should I "crush" rigid duct down some?
Also, I had a 4" plastic vent / damper flap outside, that had been weatherbeaten and began falling apart. I replaced with 4" metal exhaust vent with metal damper. Is metal or plastic better for this situation? Is metal damper to heavy for exhausted air to operate correctly?
Again, thank you for your time and assistance. It's appreciated!