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You can do that, it would start heating right away and will not be hard to tell. If you have a test meter, you can also unplug the dryer and test for continuity from the heating element terminals where the red wires are connected to the metal casing. Let me know what you find, please.
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How do I safely check the heating element in the way you describe ? Should I take the back off, set to 30 min, close the door and put my hand near the element?
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Okay, that is the thermal cut off on the top, thank you for clarifying. Usually, when that opens, it is an indication of an air flow issue. Is the vent line clear all the way to the outside? If you turn the timer to 30 minutes timed dry setting and close the door but do not start the machine, does the heating element get hot anyway, even though the machine is not running?
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Originally Posted by: Appliance Ninja  The high limit thermostat is resettable, so I want to clarify what you are replacing. What is the part number that you found to be faulty initially, please? Thermostat kit 279816ap It has two pieces in it - from what I understand its a high limit thermostat and a thermostat. The one I have replaced is at the top of the ducting above the heating element. The other one install near the heating element. I replaced it because when I hook it up to my meter, I don't get a reading.
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The high limit thermostat is resettable, so I want to clarify what you are replacing. What is the part number that you found to be faulty initially, please?
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Our dryer stopped heating a while back so I bought a meter to test the parts and found that the high limit thermostat was blown. I cleaned the dryer and checked the exhaust for blocks and found none. I replaced the HLT and got 3 cycles out of it before it blew again. I figured it was faulty, got another and it blew on the first cycle. I have another ready to install but don't want to waste it. From my research I think there is a short somewhere but I do not know how to check or where to start. Any ideas or tips?
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