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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Friday, November 15, 2013 2:01:30 AM(UTC)
 
All the below are iffy as you have replaced just about everything.

Did this unit ever work at this location for you?
If this unit is new to you there is a possibility that it was mis-wired by the former owner.

When you cleaned your vent system did you also check that the outside vent louvers opened fully?
This is a bit of a long shot as a vent problem usually blows the thermal fuse not the thermal cutoff.

Check the hot air input holes at the back of the drum.

I cannot find any tech info on this unit so the following is a guess based on other units which use the same control board,
Looks like his unit uses a motor and a heater relay controlled by the circuit board,
Unplug the unit and swap them.
I believe they are the same but double check them.
then plug the unit in and give it a try.
If the unit starts without using the push to start button then the heater relay contacts are probably welded together.

Check any seals in the air flow path in the dryer.
Until you reach the blower the system is under vacuum so if a seal fails it will pull in room air. The thermistor on the blower then sees aa lower temperature and will keep the heater on trying to reach set point temperature.

Now here is what is weird about your problem.
I am assuming that you are using the correct terminology and that the thermal cutoff you are replacing is on the heater and is not the thermal fuse which is on the blower.

The cutoff and high-limit are normally replaced as a set.
The high limit should open before the cutoff blows.
It will then control the heater for some time at a high heat.
Eventually it's contacts will fail (probably weld together), It is a safety device so it's contacts are not very good unlike a operating/cycling thermostat.
Then the cutoff will open.
In other words the cutoff is a secondary thermal protect for the hi-limit.
Usually a cutoff blowing without the hi-limit ever regulating the heat is due to a grounded element re: the hi-limit cannot shut power off to the heating element.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Appliance Ninja Posted: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 4:22:47 PM(UTC)
 
Okay, what part number are you replacing the cut off with?
kencorey281@gmail.com Posted: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 4:12:39 PM(UTC)
 
I have cleaned the intake the lint filter and lint filter housing
Appliance Ninja Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:55:50 PM(UTC)
 
Excellent, thank you! So we know we are dealing with an air flow issue. If the vent has been cleaned, we can rule that out. So, we need to look at the air intake at the rear of the dryer, the lint filter and the lint filter housing. Also, if the dryer is in a very small room with a closed door, you can see this issue. How is the filter, filter housing, air intake slots on the back and the air flow in the room?
kencorey281@gmail.com Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:51:12 PM(UTC)
 
Yes I have and I also made sure it wasn't touching the housing
kencorey281@gmail.com Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:48:26 PM(UTC)
 
Yes I have done all that
Appliance Ninja Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:46:23 PM(UTC)
 
Did you replace the actual heating element? Do you have a meter to test continuity with?
kencorey281@gmail.com Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:44:07 PM(UTC)
 
I have replaced the thermal cut off several times but it keeps on blowing I have changed all the heating components and cleaned all the duct work I am out of ideas please help
Appliance Ninja Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:40:45 PM(UTC)
 
The thermal cut off opens because of air flow issues. Did you clean the filter and the filter housing? Did you replace the heating element?
kencorey281@gmail.com Posted: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:35:48 PM(UTC)
 
I keep blowing thermal cutoffs I have replaced all the heating components and cleaned all the ducts