Sorry for not responding sooner but I have been at the lake for a few days.

The thermal cut-off should be 0 ohms.

Here is my standard blurb if it is blown.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check the thermistor resistance.
Check the heater relay contacts. I think the motor and heater relays are the same but double check this as I am not 100% sure. If they are swap them to see what happens.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

Here are the parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 11063932102 | AppliancePartsPros.com

If you go to the sears parts site they have the parts breakdowns.

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

All thermostats should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
On the heater you have a hi-limit thermostat and a thermal cutoff (fuse).
I think it is the cutoff that is blown.

On the blower housing you have a thermistor, it's resistance tells the control board what the temperature is so the board can control the temperature bu opening/closing the heater relay contacts.
Also there is a thermal fuse, this one kills power to the motor.

This is a fairly complicated unit but I would start by doing the following.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check the thermistor resistance.
Check that the heating relay contacts are open when not energized.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.