Post a reply - Appliance Repair Forum - Free Service from Appliance Parts Pros

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
jwduncan	Posted: Thursday, October 27, 2011 2:10:40 PM(UTC)
	Thank you for the excellent advice and more details of what should be checked. :D I was delayed responding due to another visit to the hospital for issues related to a previous surgery....now that I'm back home, I can get back into the DIY mode. The tip on the thermostat kit is very helpful, as well as the heating coils or other possible causes for the safety thermostat failing initially. :)
denman	Posted: Thursday, October 20, 2011 2:10:20 AM(UTC)
	Here are your parts Replacement parts for General Electric WSM2700WAWWW Washer dryer combination \| AppliancePartsPros.com [COLOR="DarkRed"]So the bottom line is, am I on the right track suspecting this as the cause of the motor not starting when connected normally to the control panel?[/COLOR] Yes I think you are on the fight track but I do not have a wiring diagram to confirm this. In any case all thermostat/fuses should be 0 ohms at room temperature. Looking at the parts The hi-limit thermostat is Item 1233 in Section 2. The thermal fuse is Item 1236 in Section 2. Looks like they have had problems in this area as it is a kit. The main control thermostat is item 1315 in Section 3. You also have to find out what caused it to blow re: the unit was overheating. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal fuse (cut-off) blows. The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow. So if the thermal fuse is gone I would also replace the hi-limit. Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device. Just in case it is not a grounded element. With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced. Check that the belt is OK. Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot. Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow. Check/clean your vent system. Check/clean the blower wheel. If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
	THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
jwduncan	Posted: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 5:52:02 AM(UTC)
	I am experiencing a problem with the upper dryer unit no longer starting up and running. The initial failure was, the dryer seemed to be overheating although it did not shut down on it's own during normal use. Opening the dryer door, the inside seemed unusually hot. After allowing it to cool down, I have since been unable to get the dryer to restart. I can hear what sounds like a switch or relay attempting to engage when the start button is pressed, but the motor and dryer does not start. Pulling out the schematics and other diagnostics I found online, I tested the 120vac dryer motor directly. It does run when connected directly to a hot AC voltage. Belts, door switches, and control panel all tested okay on my multi-meter. Looking over the schematics-wiring diagram that were housed inside the unit, I suspect the Safety Thermostat could be a possible problem. Disconnecting the wiring harness from the dryer motor and testing continuity between the brown wires that appear to lead to the safety thermostat, I read an open circuit with no resistance. At this point, I haven't removed the safety thermostat from the dryer itself. If I'm on the right track, I am assuming I should be able to read some type of closed circuit or small resistance across the two leads from the safety thermostat. Since I'm not familiar with this model, I'm only taking educated guesses as to the problem. I finally found a diagram online that gives me an idea where the safety thermostat is actually located (near the front left side of the door behind the trim panel). So the bottom line is, am I on the right track suspecting this as the cause of the motor not starting when connected normally to the control panel? Safety thermostat Part Number: AP2042802 made by GE The last time I had the front removed, I was able to locate the leads for the door switch, which tested fine. But not the safety thermostat itself.

Notification