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Here is a manual most of it does not apply to your unit but it does have a decent motor checking section. http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16008714.pdfThe easiest way to check the motors current draw would be with a clip on amp meter. I do not know what the actual draw should be. I would remove the wires from it and check it with a meter. Check each winding to the common. Then the 2 windings in series, this should add up to the separate windings total. Also check them to the motors case. Remember to mark where the wires go, you would be surprised the number of posts that come in with "I don't remember where the wires attach"
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The thermal fuse at the bottom of blower chute. White one with the 2 prongs. I know the louvers are open because they were all broken off last year (don't ask). Thanks for the info on checking one tab to the frame to check element. I've been wondering that. I will check that tomorrow. I have checked across the tabs with wires off several times and usually get about 12.5. The motor is about the only thing other than the element I have not replaced. How would be the easiest way to check for overcurrent.?
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Here are the parts Section replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER2614DW0 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203401728.pdfMy whirlpool dryer keeps burning through thermal fuses. Which one? The unit has two. checked exhaust vent to outside (clean). Did you check that the louvers opened full with the dryer on. This time I visually inspected and made sure element was not grounding on heat cover Best to use a meter as sometimes you cannot see where it is grounding. Remove both wires from it, measure it should be about 10 ohms. Then switch to a higher meter scale and measure each contact to the frame both should be infinity. and tested hi-limit on blower cover on the stove. I believe the blower cover has a thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat. The heater housing has a hi-limit thermostat and another thermal fuse. Note these are sold as a set with the hi-limit switching about 50 degrees below the fuse blow out. Dryer did not feel very warm but the motor was (hotter than the blower and heat ducts themselves). It could be that you have a motor problem the fuses are designed to blow by temperature but they can also blow by high current. I hope the above helps !!
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My whirlpool dryer keeps burning through thermal fuses. It quit 2 weeks ago so I removed blower chute and cleaned out with air hose and shop vac (it was dirty but still blowing) and checked exhaust vent to outside (clean).It lasted about 6 cycles. The second time I replaced fuse and 240 cord because of a tinge of black on one prong. It lasted about 2 cycles. This time I visually inspected and made sure element was not grounding on heat cover and tested hi-limit on blower cover on the stove. It showed good (.4) but when heated it would not open. It lasted about 6 cycles again. The last time I tested every thermostat, fuse and some wiring. All checked good except for one on top of heat chute (I think it went bad when I checked it). Continuity showed good and it clicked when heated and was reading infinity but after cooling it would not close so I made my last visit to my friendly neighborhood appliance man to get this and my 4th or 5th thermal fuse. It didn't last a cycle. Dryer did not feel very warm but the motor was (hotter than the blower and heat ducts themselves). Model # is LER2614DWO. Please help!
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