As there is 120V at the junction box but only 20V at the control, there is certainly an issue within the fuse. However, since the fuse is kicking out, it is likely that there is a component overdrawing current. Commonly, this would be caused by the heating circuit. With the power supply turned off, the heating element circuit can be tested from the blue with white stripe wire to the blue with red stripe wire and it should measure between 10-40 Ohms, wet/dry respectively. It should also measure infinite/open line when measured to ground. If the heater circuit measures good, the next step would be testing the drain pump from the two brown wires at connection P5 of the main control. The resistance should measure between 27 to 32 Ohms with infinite/open line when measured to ground. If either of these tests fail, the specific circuit/part would need to be checked more in-depth and replaced as necessary.

In line fuse was replaced as part of the original fix. That allowed me to run a full drain cycle and everything looked good until I tried to run a full normal cycle. Then, as soon as it tried to start it bricked again. No power to control panel. I’m assuming that the fuse is toast again, but have not been able to open it back up to check. Trying to understand what that first operation in the normal cycle is, so I can diagnose and determine if that is the issue.

My dishwasher touch panel went dead. I did the normal tests: check breaker, inspect control board, etc. and determine that the board was only getting about 20v while there was 120v going into the dishwasher. I replaced the wire harness, it powered right up and ran a 2min drain cycle no problem. However, when I tried to run a full cycle it tried to start and immediately shutdown. No power getting through, touch panel completely bricked. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this?

Kitchenaid KTDM604KPS0