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Replacement parts for General Electric GSD2230F00WW Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

It can be difficult to find the point on the timer that actuates the drain solenoid as it is only actuated for a couple seconds and then the water pressure keeps the flapper valve in the drain position till the unit is empty.

[COLOR="Blue"]What could be the problem? solenoid?[/COLOR]
Yes it could be the solenoid.
Remove the kick plate and activate the solenoid by hand.
Just to check that the drain assembly is OK mechanically.
If no good - remove the solenoid and inspect it. They can overheat and melt the plastic in the solenoid causing it to jam. If this is the case you will need a new solenoid and a timer, as the timer contacts for drain are probably sticking closed for too long causing the solenoid to overheat.
If OK
Remove the wires and check the solenoid winding with a meter.
Not sure what it should be but it should have continuity.
If OK
Connect your meter to the wires going to the drain solenoid, set it to the 200 volt scale and check to see if you get power there when it should be draining. If not then either you have a bad wire or the timer is shot.
If you do not have experience using a meter and measuring voltage then get a friend who has some experience to give you a hand.
Be careful that you do not short the wires together and that you do not get a shock.

[COLOR="Blue"]I turn the dial on the washer and the solenoid does nothing, should it make a noise to actuate the drainage?[/COLOR]
Yes you should hear the solenoid when it pulls down into the drain position.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.