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GE washer will fill and drain but no spin/agitate

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Check for 120 VAC at the inverter plug C2 between the pins 6 & 3 while the lid is closed.

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Old 06-14-2011, 04:09 PM
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Check for 120 VAC at the inverter plug C2 between the pins 6 & 3 while the lid is closed. Post the results.

Gene.

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Old 06-14-2011, 04:39 PM
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Gene,

Would you mind telling me which one that is? The plugs into the board have 4(green/yellow,white/red,red/black,gray) then 2(blue,black) then 2(red,yellow) then 5(red,yellow,blue,black,purple)

Thank you
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:56 PM
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This is the very left plug. It has 6 terminals and only 4 wires connected. I believe it should be White/Red and Gray wires. The plug can be disconnected from the inverter to make the test easier.

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Old 06-14-2011, 05:06 PM
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Thank you Gene, the result is 120v
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:46 PM
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So there is 120 volts to the inverter.

Try to reset the inverter. Unplug the washer for a few minutes. Plug it back. Open and close the lid 10 times in any 12 second period within the first 30 seconds of power-up.

If the inverter LED is still dead, replace the motor/inverter assembly.

- The motor/inverter assembly Part number: AP4536553

Part number: AP4536553



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Old 06-14-2011, 09:08 PM
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Thank you. I tried that but opening and closing it 7 times. I'll try 10 in the morning and report back. Thank you.
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:29 PM
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The reset did not work. I found a motor for $85 shipped to my door and I will hopefully be installing it this week and reporting back if this solved the problem. Is there any specific procedure for installing motor or is it as straight forward as someone with DIY ability would think. Possibly do this lid open and close? Is there an initialization for e new board/motor? Thank you.
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Old 06-15-2011, 03:33 PM
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Are you sure this is the correct motor?

What is GE part number?

What is the warranty and return policy on it?

Where did you find such price? I would buy it for myself for such price.


The instructions are attached to the reply.

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Attached Files
File Type: doc The motor-inverter removal.doc (1.12 MB, 16 views)
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:05 PM
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Gene,

While I am waiting for the motor, I tested between the Red and Yellow wire which is supposed to read 98Ohms and it reads 70. What would this mean? I suppose my previous 98 reading was not accurate.

Also,
Is there a way to put 120V directly to the old motor and see if it spins? Which wires would be used for this and would it mean anything in diagnosing the issue? I dont want to blow the old motor if it is still good and the only issue is with the inverter board (maybe I could use it for some other project). Thank you.

Last edited by Xdriver : 06-18-2011 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:01 PM
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The inverter/motor assembly receives 120 VAC, which the inverter converts to approximately 340 VDC. The inverter then uses pulse width modulation (PWM) to supply the motor with an AC varying frequency to control speed. There is no way you can apply 120 VAC directly to the motor.

The reading of 70 Ohms instead of 98 Ohms can be a sign of a bad mode shifter coil but it has nothing to do with the problem you described (no LED, dead motor).

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