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turnirup!  
#1 Posted : Friday, April 23, 2010 11:44:53 AM(UTC)
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turnirup!

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Washer fills and empties. Agitator seems twork properly and timer runs through all cycles but tub won't spin.
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sidfink43  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 24, 2010 4:49:15 PM(UTC)
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sidfink43

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The most likely problem is the clutch, this part here.

Part number: AP3094537
Part number: AP3094537


See the sticky by Richappy at the top of the page for additional info on how to replace it.
turnirup!  
#3 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:20:00 AM(UTC)
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turnirup!

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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
The most likely problem is the clutch, this part here.

Part number: AP3094537
Part number: AP3094537


See the sticky by Richappy at the top of the page for additional info on how to replace it.



Pardon my ignorance, sidfink43, but I can't find the "sticky" you refer to regarding replacement instructions. This would be helpful. Can you please advise. I am new and unfamiliar with all the ins and outs of this wonderful resource. Thanks for your tiime!
dgdistrb  
#4 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:49:57 AM(UTC)
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dgdistrb

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I would check your belts maybe worn or loose or need replacing.
sidfink43  
#5 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:58:08 AM(UTC)
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sidfink43

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No Problem. The sticky is on direct drive brakes by Richappy and is at the top of this page. Also, here is a site with detailed instructions on replacing the clutch.

Clutch Replacement on Whirlpool and Kenmore Washers

Finally, you can disregard the post on checking the belts. This is a direct drive machine with no belts.

The repair is not difficult, but its helps to have some help, plenty of time and plenty of room to work with.
turnirup!  
#6 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:21:01 AM(UTC)
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turnirup!

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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
No Problem. The sticky is on direct drive brakes by Richappy and is at the top of this page. Also, here is a site with detailed instructions on replacing the clutch.

Clutch Replacement on Whirlpool and Kenmore Washers

Finally, you can disregard the post on checking the belts. This is a direct drive machine with no belts.

The repair is not difficult, but its helps to have some help, plenty of time and plenty of room to work with.


I found the instructions by Richappy. Seems very complicated. The other link for instructions seems very straight forward. I will refer to both. Both have raised a few questions though...

1. should I be prepared to replace the brakes?
2. Seems to be different opinions on whether I need a special spanner wrench. Can you advise?

This washer is in a rental unit we purchased for my son to stay in while at college. Thursday, his roomate notified me of the problem with the washer. He reported it stopped spinning, but for a couple days if he reset the cycle or waited 8+ hours or so it might spin. I am sure he did not wait and watch it through the entire cycle. Probably just noted if the clothes were wrung out or not. The other roomates probably took no notice and just threw the clothes sopping wet in the dryer. I checked the machine Friday and it was as I originally reported on this blog. Just wouldn't spin at all. There are no reports of burning smell. I can turn the drum by hand and notice no more resitance than I have with my Kenmore at home.

I really appreciate your volunteer time, this is awesome. I am a genreal contactor and have some mechanical savvy, enough to know not to dive into something like this without preperation.

PS have issues with the icemaker in the frig leaking also I will start a new thread for this. (Also the kitch faucet leaked and ruined the cab bottom, I have a handle on this, just pointing out that when it rains, it pours)
sidfink43  
#7 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 3:10:58 PM(UTC)
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sidfink43

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Well, darn, it does rain on you. As I am sure you know, the ice maker leak is probably just a bad connection, you will find it easily enough.

On your washer, you do not need the spanner wrench as you will not be taking off the basket and tub unless you go after the brakes. There is mixed opininon on this, but I do not think you need to repair or replace the brakes when you change out the clutch. I don't unless there is a problem with them.

If the clutch is not the problem the next place to go will be the drive block which will require the spanner, but let's wait and see on that.

You might replace the coupling when you do the clutch. Here is a video which complements the other sites on how to open this thing up.

YouTube - Direct Drive Washing Machine Repair Video Tutorial *Watch in HIGH Quality!*

Given your background I think you will find this repair easier then you think. Just follow the video, then continue and remove the transmission (three bolts and out it comes!) and the clutch is right on top of it.
turnirup!  
#8 Posted : Friday, April 30, 2010 5:23:38 AM(UTC)
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turnirup!

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Posts: 17

Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
Well, darn, it does rain on you. As I am sure you know, the ice maker leak is probably just a bad connection, you will find it easily enough.

On your washer, you do not need the spanner wrench as you will not be taking off the basket and tub unless you go after the brakes. There is mixed opininon on this, but I do not think you need to repair or replace the brakes when you change out the clutch. I don't unless there is a problem with them.

If the clutch is not the problem the next place to go will be the drive block which will require the spanner, but let's wait and see on that.

You might replace the coupling when you do the clutch. Here is a video which complements the other sites on how to open this thing up.

YouTube - Direct Drive Washing Machine Repair Video Tutorial *Watch in HIGH Quality!*

Given your background I think you will find this repair easier then you think. Just follow the video, then continue and remove the transmission (three bolts and out it comes!) and the clutch is right on top of it.


Well, I replaced the clutch. Actually kinda fun learning sometihng new. However, the tub spun for one cycle and then no more. We are back to the same symptoms as originally posted, all seems to work but tub won't spin. You mention the drive block would be next? Are there recomended tutorials or instructions? Is there more than one likely possible cause I should take care of at the same time?

Thanks for the help!
sidfink43  
#9 Posted : Friday, April 30, 2010 7:45:05 AM(UTC)
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sidfink43

Rank: Advanced Member

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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699

Darn, worked once and then went back to the original problem. If it is not the drive block then it must be the brakes hanging up.

Here is a service manual on a model close to yours.

https://secured.whirlpoo...2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

When you took off the agitator you saw the nut that is taken off to get to the drive block. See page 24.
turnirup!  
#10 Posted : Monday, May 3, 2010 8:15:46 AM(UTC)
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turnirup!

Rank: Member

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Joined: 4/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 17

Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
Darn, worked once and then went back to the original problem. If it is not the drive block then it must be the brakes hanging up.

Here is a service manual on a model close to yours.

https://secured.whirlpoo...2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

When you took off the agitator you saw the nut that is taken off to get to the drive block. See page 24.


Thanks for the info. I have found the drive block AP2905773 and I gues I'll need the spanner wrench AP2905773, but the question is do I need to buy the basket drive and brake kit AP3094539 (a bit expensive) or can I just get the brakes?
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