[laser3kw]

Greetings to all.
I have search around and found a few things relevant to my problem but I am not sure they full match.
I have Whirlpool model LSR8233eq0. My wife reported that it was making noise and upon searching it was determined that the clutch # 284785 was at fault. It was replaced with a new FSP and put back into service. Also, while I was there I installed a new start cap on the motor. We ran a couple of loads through, but it seems there is still a problem.
I set the timer to spin and, with the lid open, I can use my hand to keep the basket from spinning up with moderate effort. When I let it engage itself, it looks like it does not spin very fast. Our clothes come out wet to where you can wring water out by hand and our dryer time have gone up drastically.
When I had the trans and motor out, I did notice that the trans seem to function "weird". I could turn the shaft quiet a few times before the other shaft would turn at all. Also if I reversed, it seemed the other shaft would not turn at all. If I have the lid open, motor off, what should the basket and agitator do? Should I be able to turn the basket or the agitator Upper / lower by hand? Am I looking at trans problems? If you suggest the brake, how much harder is it just to replace the drive tube?

Thank you,
I appreciate your help.

[laser3kw]

Here is a little more info. The agitator seems to work well. It seems to be aggressive and circulates the clothes well. I did notice in the FSP clutch kit, the instructions refer to spring colors. My instructions state:
"To determine which spring to use, match the cabinet style and width of the washer. See chart below".
The chart states:
"Blue spring is factory installed".
Then the chart lists:
24" and 27" regular and over/under, extra and super capacity washers use the Blue spring.
24" compact and 24" over / under use the Black spring.
My washer is a "27 super capacity.
Now here is the weird part, The FSP came with a Blue and a Green spring (where is the black?).
To complicate things further, the old clutch has a Red spring.
Which is the right spring? It may be that the clutch is slipping due to a incorrect spring.
But I can not rule out another problem.

[laser3kw]

Another observation.
Just now, we were washing a relatively small load and it was spinning just fine. I had the lid up and had the door switch pushed in so I could observer the load spinning and rinsing. I was happy to see the basket spin at what I consider to be a normal rate. I then released the door switch and the basket slowed to a stop as I shut the lid. When the lid was full shut, I could hear the motor humming softly as it tried to accelerate the basket, but could tell it was not spinning. I opened the lid and pushed the door switch in only to find the basket stopped. I tried to rotate the basket back and forth but it was stuck tight. I then closed the lid again and the basket began to rotate again. I opened the lid and held the door switch again and the basket seem to rotate normal.
Does this scenario suggest a intermittent stuck brake or should I dig deeper?

[laser3kw]

still no thoughts? any thing to point me in the right direction would be appreciated.
I am willing to buy new parts if needed, I just don't want to by parts to fix one end when the other end is the problem

[richappy]

Do the tranny coupler test in my sticky "replacing direct drive washer brake shoes" and post results.

[laser3kw]

Thanks for replying. I did some more work. I totally disassembled the washer and cleaned everything. All the parts came out. Motor, trans, drive tube, drum, lint filter,outer drum - everything. I lightly greased all of the friction points and worked the brake over. I sanded the shoes and drum and verified the brake action when the cam was rotated. The clutch is new, I made sure the spring was similar to the old one. I pulled the lint filter out and cleaned it. Of course the drum was out and I cleaned the outer tank. No sign off foreign objects or rubbing anywhere. I reassembled and made sure the drive block was installed correctly and that everything was tight. All off the parts look like new. No rust or corrosion anywhere. all of the plastic parts are intact and seem to be in good shape. The drive coupler is good and tight.
Now the bad news. We ran a couple of loads and it seemed to spin up the way it should. BUT, while I was watching the last load, I notice when it went from the rinse cycle to the spin cycle, it didn't sound right. I slipped a screw driver into the door switch and opened the lid. The drum was not turning. The motor was humming quietly but no spin. I released the door switch and re activated it and the drum took off. I noticed when it works right you hear a clunk when it engages. I don't hear the clunk when it stalls.
The scenario goes : rinse - timer times out - drum slows to stop -timer switches to spin - clunk sound - motor and drum winds up -all is good. If I don't hear that clunk, I can be sure it isn't spinning. I can set the washer on spin and work the door switch and get it to repeat the failure, although random stalling. When it does stall, I release the door switch and poke it down again and it normally takes off.
I would like to say that everything I looked at looks in great shape. But what is the hang up? door switch maybe?

[richappy]

When the spin basket stops and the motor is running, check the clutch housing above the tranny, is it spinning?

[laser3kw]

Wow Richappy - your up late!
I guess the only way to observe what you suggest is to remove the cabinet and run the washer? As this is intermittent, I would possible have to run it bare bones for possible a week or two - hopefully less. Is that possible? Is there anything I would have to improvise to run it like that? It wouldn't be a problem for me, my wife and I are the only two that would go near it. Proper safety considerations would be followed.

[richappy]

If it is the clutch, it will slip more with a heavy load.