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replacing the clutch on a Whirlpool washer

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Hi, I have a 5-6 year old Whirlpool Ultimate care washer (LSQ9659PW0) that agitates but does not spin. It has

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Old 12-25-2009, 10:28 AM
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Default replacing the clutch on a Whirlpool washer
Model Number: LSQ9659PW0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hi,

I have a 5-6 year old Whirlpool Ultimate care washer (LSQ9659PW0) that agitates but does not spin. It has been diagnoses as having a bad clutch but the appliance repair company that I contacted to look at the washer has indicated that they will not repair the clutch without also replacing the basket drive. The total price for the repairs would be nearly $300 (labor and parts) in which case it might make more sense to buy a new washer but this seems a bit premature. I would like to do the repairs myself and to replace only the clutch but wanted to get a second opinion before diving in. Alternatively, is there any way I can examine the basket drive to make a visual determination if it too needs repaired? Any finally can I drop out the transmission from below on this washer so I don't need to take out the entire basket??? Some information that I found online implied that this was possible indicating that the gearcase mounting bolts that could be removed from below.

Any advice or suggestions that you might have would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2009, 04:29 PM
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You can find some useful information in our previous posts: Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes and not spinning

- The clutch assembly Part number: AP3094537

Part number: AP3094537



- The basket drive Part number: AP3094539

Part number: AP3094539



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LSQ9659PW0 Automatic Washer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the Service manual.

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Old 12-26-2009, 02:51 AM
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If the motor is running in spin, you just might have dragging brake shoes. Do the test in my "sticky" replacing direct drive brake shoes. Dragging brake shoes will wear out the clutch.
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:13 PM
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Gene and Richappy,

I just got back home from visiting relatives and pulled the basket out of the washer to check the drive block and spin tube per your suggestions in earlier posts. Both loooked great with no obvious signs of damage or wear.

The two major culprits left are the clutch and basket drive/brake assembly, which brings me back to my original problem of trying to determine if both need replaced or if I can get by with the clutch alone. I am pretty sure the clutch is bad. Before I took the basket out when I would turn the clutch from below it frequently slipped and would not grab the basket. Also, when I tried to turn the transmission spindle using the tranny coupler per richappy's suggestion ("Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes") it was hard to turn. Without pliers I needed to use both of hands (grabbing two separate tabs) to turn the spindle and I had the basket off at the time. In contrast I don't have any evidence that the brakes are bad. There was never a problem with thumping noises or vibrations when the spin cycle ended. I have not taken the transmission off to get at the clutch yet but am planning to do so tomorrow. Do you think I will need to drop the spin tube and examine the brake pads and shoes or can I proceed with just the clutch repairs. I am worried that tearing into the brakes might be pushing it a bit for my skill level even with the instructions in the "Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes" post. I want to do the repairs as cheaply as possible because my wife is all for buying a new washer but I don't want it to break again after just a few loads. Any advice? Is there a website with illustrations or photos that you can recommend?

Also, a few other questions.....

1. The top half of the center post that the basket ifits over was pretty corroded. The paint has flaked off and there was some rusting of the metal. Is this just cosmetic?

2. The plastic fitting at the top of the basket (P/N 8519788) contains water that I can hear swishing around inside. Is this normal? There is a plug on the rim that loooks like it could be looosened with a phillips screw driver to drain the water but it indicates that the plug is not removable.

And (as an aside) for other do-it-your-selfers reading this post, the spanner nut was real easy to get off! I was worried that I was going to have to buy a spanner wrench but a hammer and a 3 inch socket wrench extension worked great (it gave a better angle than a screwdriver).

Thanks much,

Mike

Last edited by boselam : 01-01-2010 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:51 PM
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If the tranny coupler was very hard to turn, just replace the brake shoes per the instructions in my sticky.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:08 AM
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I dropped the transmission this morning and examined the clutch and basket drive per your sticky on replacing brake shoes. As expected the clutch ring was easy to turn in the housing (I could move it using just my pinkie finger) so I am probably going to need to get a new clutch. I have included a photo of the clutch assembly with this post.

The bottom of the basket drive looked fine (see photos) and the brake shoes did not seem to be sticking since the spin tube was easy to turn, using the plastic cam as a handle. I pulled the spin tube out enough to see the surface of the brake pads but I did not dissasemble it any further to examine the brake shoe rollers because I do not know where to find them at in the assembly. Do I need to examine these or can I focus my attention on the clutch repairs at this time without making any changes to the basket drive.

Also, since I am a newbie at this can you elaborate on what it means to check the brake shoe cam rollers for "excessive play" and is this possible to evaluate without taking the brake apart any further? The plastic cam had about 30 degrees of give to it (before pushing on the 'release arms' of the brake shoes. Is this a measure of the degree of play?

And one final question......

When I was removing the transmission and sliding the agitator shaft out of the spin tube a small brass pin dropped onto the floor. The pin is about 2 inches long and has a head like a nail and a small hole at the end of the shaft which was lubricated with a clear grease. Do you know where this came from on the washer? Does it fit in the end of the agitator shaft? I could not find anything like it in the parts diagrams for the washer. I did not think to take a picture but I could do so later today.

Thanks much!

Mike
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Washer-Repair 001.jpg (75.1 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg Washer-Repair 003.jpg (69.6 KB, 167 views)
File Type: jpg Washer-Repair 005.jpg (71.1 KB, 220 views)

Last edited by boselam : 01-01-2010 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:04 PM
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To check the cam rollers on the brake shoes, just push on them, if there is a lot of play in them, they are worn out.
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:43 AM
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I pulled out the drive block and partly disassembled the brake to see the rollers. All I had to do was to take off the C clip and the plastic cam as shown in the photos.

One of the rollers (of the outer/primary brake show) was somewhat difficult to see but I could get a better view and could rotate both rollers by pressing in on the brake pads. Neither roller had ‘excessive play’ as best as I could assess. There was good contact between the shoes and the roller when the drive block was out but when I put I back inside the drum the brake pad were pushed back in towards eachother a bit such that the release arms of the shoes no longer contacted the rollers and the plastic c am had a bit of give (moving 30 degrees before contacting the rollers and releasing the backs) but I can’t imagine that this is a problem.

I have ordered a new clutch and will put it in early next week. My only remaining concern relates to the brass pin that fell out when I dropped the transmission as was mentioned in my earlier post. It is about two inches long and its shaft is flat on one side and rounded on the other with a hole at the end. It does not seem to fit in the end of the agitator spindle or the transmission. I have included a picture with this post. Any suggestions about where it belongs on the washer would be much appreciated.

Thanks and Happy New Year to others on the forum!

Mike
Attached Images
File Type: jpg washer-repair 001.jpg (66.6 KB, 149 views)
File Type: jpg washer-repair 002.jpg (58.7 KB, 147 views)
File Type: jpg washer-repair 005.jpg (64.6 KB, 147 views)
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:19 PM
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Default I've got the same pin.

I've got the same pin that fell out. Mine had a broken motor/pump coupler - $30 fix. But now that I've got it all back together again, it still won't agitate or spin. Pump works fine and this pin looks an awful lot like a retaining pin on car brakes. But I don't see a loose spring, or obvious tension point where it would have been. I'm pulling it all back apart currently. Thanks for the insights on this post!! Bob N>>

Update: There were 2 of these pins. They are the shipping pins that fall out when then the original shipping strap is removed from the back of the washer. They are usually caught in the little clear plastic cups that are attached to the base. When you turn the washer over or invert it, the pins can end up anywhere.

Last edited by cptbob88 : 01-01-2010 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Updated information
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Old 01-02-2010, 01:42 AM
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If the motor runs, pull it apart again and post results.
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