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I have a Kenmore washer Model: 110.26912691; Serial: CH2630128; Stock: 26912. The motor shaft that attaches to the drive coupling has become rounded off and spins inside the coupling. Is there a repair or perhaps a bushing to fit the shaft?
Is there a test procedure for the transmission/gear box to determine if that unit requires excessive torque thus causing the motor shaft failure?
Any ideas?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
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Can't say I have ever seen or heard of this happening, and I assume it was a factory problem that finally manifested itself. I think your only options are to replace the motor (ouch!) or use some type of metal shin to keep the shaft from turning inside the coupling. The new couplings have a metal insert in their shaft hole and are very tight, so you might try a new one and see if that holds.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for your response. I was using the newer coupling with the metal center. Both the motor shaft and the metal bushing are “rounded” from the bushing spinning on the shaft. I can turn the transmission side of the coupler by hand but I’m sure that is only one of the modes of operation. I imagine the spin mode would require the most initial torque. Don’t know how to test that theory though.
As for a bushing there’s not much room for anything to fit and the space seams irregularly shaped. I am thinking of using Metalset or JB Weld to fill in the spaces by coating a new coupler with a release agent and coating the shaft with the epoxy. If that doesn’t work it’s probably time for a new motor unless someone has a better idea.
I am certainly open to suggestions!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I am afraid the the torque will not allow your fix to hold, but try it.
I was thinking if driving a think metal sliver into the space between the coupler bushing and the motor shaft.
If anyone else has an idea let's hear it.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the input Sidfink43. Here's an update. This response took a while as I had to let the epoxy dry – twice.
.The JB Weld on the motor shaft worked. Maybe too well as then the coupling spun on the input shaft to the transmission. It may already have been damaged before and I missed it. Regardless I used JB Weld on that shaft end too and it worked. At least for the 2 loads so far.
Now I have oil leaking out of the transmission input shaft seal. Two loads yielded several tablespoons worth on the floor which leads to the next questions:
- Can the transmission be removed from the tub from the bottom of the machine without disturbing the agitator shaft & seals? It looks like a few bolts and out I comes but I’m rarely that lucky.
- Is it worth the effort to replace the seal?
- How much and what kind of oil is in the transmission?
Yea I know, it’s looking like time for a new machine but I would like to get this one working long enough to research and price a new one properly. Any other suggestions?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
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Well this has been an adventure. I admire your persistence.
To remove the transmission all you need to do is take out the agitator. The top half is secured by a 7/16" bolt inside the top of the agitator. Take it out, and take off the agitator. Then you can take out the transmission by taking out those three bolts. No need to disturb any tub seals.
Use 90w oil in the transmission. I think it is worth trying to repairs as seals are cheap, and you have nothing to lose.
Let us know how it all works out, but sounds like you are pretty competent so I am betting you will get the job done.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the advice. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Any idea how much oil goes in the transmission? I assume you have to fill the bottom half (casting) before sealing with the top half (stamping).
Thanks again for the help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
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Right, bring it to about a 1/8' to 1/4" from the top. It will be pretty obvious how much to put in.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks. The situation grows grimmer at every turn. After opening the transmission, there does not appear to be a reasonable way to remove the input shaft & seal. It looks like the shaft & seal were pressed in. There is no room to drive the shaft out and no way to grip the seal from the outside to pull it. I can probably drill, cut and dig the seal out and risk more damage but it’s probably not worth the effort. I think I would need the seal intact to attempt to find a replacement since a part number is not listed (that I can find anyway) and there are no mfg. markings on the gear case.
On second thought, since this is a temporary fix anyway, I think I’ll drill a hole in the transmission cover so I can add oil as needed for a few runs. That along with a drip pan might get it done for a short while.
Any thoughts?
How about recommendations for a replacement?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Well, darn. I have never done what you are trying to do as this type of leak seems to be very rare, but since they make the parts it seems there must be an easy way to replace the seal. On another Forum they have a rule which states that "if it is hard to do, you are probably doing it the wrong way" which works most of the time, but I have found exceptions and this job may be one of them. Here is what I think is the part you are looking for. Part number: AP3043580
and here is a thread that describes how one individual was able to do what I think you are trying to do. http://forum.appliancepartspros...ment-behind-coupler.htmlIf you are otherwise comfortable with the machine you might consider replacing the transmission, now that you know how to service the washer and know that it is not a difficult job. (You have already done all the hard part). If you want to replace it I would buy the very basic top loading machine, no microprocessor controls and one made by Whirlpool/Kenmore, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag.
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